24 hours with Theophanis Pilavakis
Final throw
In the village of Fini, one man claims to be the island’s last maker of pitharies. He is currently working on his last, and biggest pot
Age has not withered Theophanis Pilavakis, who, at 83, has an obvious, undimmed enthusiasm for life, with his motto being ‘To wake up every morning and always know you are going to enjoy the day’.
His enthusiasm is unbounded when it comes to talking, with villagers telling me that when Theophanis dies, the local donkeys will once again be born with hind legs. And, barely drawing a breath between sentences, he talked not only about the past but also about the hopeful future of his much loved Fini village.
Theophanis left Cyprus in 1953 to arrive in London with 16 shillings in his pocket. Thirty seven years later he returned, having passed on his successful, UK-based dressmaking business to his eldest son. Back home at last, he was determined to create something tangible to share with people and to keep his family name alive for decades to come.He has a proud family heritage that has, for over 400 years, been the byword for the making of the pitharies, those glorious bosom-shaped pots that once held village wine and zivania.
“I did what I set out to do,” he said, “and that was to create a museum within my grandfather’s 16th century house which would show, with the aid of old photographs and the pots themselves, what this ancient craft was all about and how important it once was to this village. When my brother John died ten years ago, I became the sole maker of pithary on the island.”
These days Theophanis is still too busy to lounge with his contemporaries in the local coffee shop. He rises at 7am, eats his cornflakes and, dependant whether there is a tour group arriving, he works on what he says will be his final pithary.
Needless to say this pot will be no ordinary container, it is, after all, his final throw and its going to be the biggest one ever made in the world, able to hold 2,000 litres of wine. “If the Guinness Book of Records had a section on pithary making I would be in it with this pot, and it should be finished within the next few weeks – this is indeed my final fling so to speak!”
A group of Finnish tourists arrive at 11am and Theophanis warmly welcomes them in their mother tongue, then guides them round his small museum. He is a consummate performer with his commentary of wry jokes, solid historical knowledge and brilliantly observed anecdotes.
“After my guests have gone, I will walk down the road to my house where my wife makes me a sandwich and a cup of English tea. I don’t smoke, drink or gamble, but I do like all ladies, always have done, as my job in London was designing and making beautiful evening dresses for equally beautiful women. But, I only ever admired and always enjoyed being in their company. I do have a truly wonderful wife at home who looks after me very well – she always cooks wonderful healthy food, and makes sure I don’t over tire myself, so I always rest a while after having my sandwich.
“Then its back up to the museum to do some more work on my big pithary. Afterwards, I will walk through the village, perhaps have a cup of tea and a chat, catch up on news, see my friends then home for a light supper of vegetables then read, or watch TV. I am always in bed before 11 o clock ready for the next day to dawn.
“The only thing that will ever disturb my sleep these days is the worry that our local crafts are literally dying out, the famous Fini chair-maker died a few years ago and there was no one to take his place, so that art has gone forever.
“The same with me, when I go, there will be no more pitharies made, but at least I will have left a solid record behind.”
It’s clear that Theophanis, despite decades spent abroad, believes being Cypriot is akin to having an indelible cultural watermark, one that was minted onto him from birth.
When I broach the subject of ageing and all the inconveniences it brings with it, he wisely referred me to the words of Aeschylus the Greek poet and playwright:‘Old people are
Always young
Enough to
Learn with profit’
Theophanis Pilvakis can be contacted to open the museum for you on 99 529293
