The wine guy
SOUTH Australians are fond of telling you they live in the driest state in the driest continent on earth. ‘Australia is a big, old, dry, biscuit,’ they will tell you. It is true. Australia is the oldest, flattest and most arid continent. Two hundred years ago settlers came from very different lands, including the wet, fertile countries of western Europe.
On board the HMS Oakland in 1878, Englishman Henri Pike would never have believed that one day his decisive move to emigrate to Australia would have been recalled 125 years later in Cyprus. And this, thanks to his great grandson, Edgar, and a young Cypriot entrepreneur, Alkis Philippou.
Henri Pike settled in the small town of Oakbank in the Adelaide Hills and in 1886 established a family brewing business called H. Pike & Co. The name became well known throughout South Australia for its quality beer, soft drinks and tonic ale. The company used the English Pike fish on its label, which remains to this day.
However, it was only in 1972 that the name Pike was related to wine. The sale of H. Pike & Co in that year did not end the family tradition. Edgar was well established in the wine industry as a private vigneron and as a vineyard manager for a large proprietary wine company. His sons, Andrew and Neil, have both followed in their father’s footsteps. Since graduating from Roseworthy Agricultural College both have become proficient in their separate fields within the wine industry – Andrew in viticulture and management and Neil in winemaking and marketing. Established fully in 1984, today Neil makes wines at the Polish Hill River under the Pike logo. The winery and vineyards are situated in the historic and picturesque Polish Hill River sub region, on the eastern side of the Clare Valley. The climate in this area is considerably cooler and the soils are also quite different to the rest of the region. These attributes impart distinctive flavours and aromas to the wines from the Polish Hill River area.
Pikes has grown to 90 acres of vineyard, planted on red/brown earth over yellow clay subsoil and slate. Varieties grown are Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet, Shiraz, Sangiovese, Pinot Grigio, Merlot and others. A total of 35,000 cases are produced with 25 per cent of it exported. Pikes pride themselves on making premium table wines that reflect variety, vintage and regional characteristics. Throughout their 20 years of winemaking they have strived to maintain this philosophy.
From the wines I have tested, the Chardonnay 2002 (£9.20) has melon-like fruit aromas and cashew nut characters complemented by a touch of creaminess, rich and soft palate and good persistence of flavour. The 2001 Shiraz, Grenache and Mourvedre(£9.20) had intriguing aromas of damp earth, eastern spices and forest floor with farmyard, old-world characters. The Shiraz was rich, displaying aromas of blackberries, white pepper and mocha and notable for its French oak notes on the palate. The 2001 Merlot (£9.20) had a deep purple colour, cassis and dark fruit driven nose, rich cedary flavours and firm, dry tannins. Cabernet 2000 (£9.20) has gently fragrant aromas of blackcurrants and plums mixed with cedary French oak, sweet fruit and fine tannins on the palate. The 1999 Reserve Cabernet (£18.40) has darker berry and cassis fruit, the cedary notes were evident along with mocha, rich and intense palate.
l The presentation of Pikes wines took place at the Holiday Inn’s Vivere restaurant in Nicosia and it was hosted by Tim Holmes, a wine expert, and Alkis Philippou of First Mediterranean, the company that imports Pikes to Cyprus. Tel: 99 374075, 99 624699
Wine of the week
2003 Pikes Riesling Alco Volume 12% Price £8.05
THERE are very few wines that I would classify as almost perfect. This wine is one them. Fresh and young with a brilliant pale green colour, the nose is rich with lifted citrus aromas – lemon and lime – honeysuckle, and with a powdery, mineral component. The scents are intense and concentrated. It has a subtle and delicate palate; when you take a sip of this wine you hardly notice that you have it in your mouth – pristine mouthwatering flavours prevail. With the dry, crisp finish there is the typical steely acidity that Neil Pike invariably retains in his Riesling. This will blossom with bottle age. You may drink now or over the next five to seven years. A trademark Pikes Riesling, perfect for hot weather, drink young and chilled at 9º C with seared scallops, sushi and Thai spicy food. Simply sensational.
