The other… Boutari
THE trilogy of Greek winemakers is ending today with a trip to northwest Greece and Ktima Kir-Yianni. The vineyards that comprise the Kir-Yianni estate were part of a large farm that was purchased by the Boutari family in the1960s. In addition to being the main source of fruit for the flagship Boutari Grande Reserve Naousa wines, it also ushered in the era of single vineyard winemaking and contributed greatly to the revival of one of Greece’s most important wine producing regions.
During the 1980s Yiannis Boutaris, the company’s head of winemaking and vineyard management, began a programme of experimentation with several Greek and foreign varieties, determined to achieve an international standard of wine production on the property. In the mid 1990s, a decade in which the Boutari company had become a fully diversified beverage conglomerate, a small, but state-of-the-art, winery was built in order to complete the transition from vineyard to estate. Shortly thereafter, Yiannis, eager to pursue his dream of artisan production, exited the Boutari group to focus on winemaking at the Yiannakohori estate and other properties in Makedonia. Yiannis’ son, Mihalis, fresh out of Harvard and a masters degree programme at UC Davis, became managing director of the Naousa estate. His other son, Stelios, a veteran of wine marketing, runs General Wine Company, a marketing and distribution arm that manages sales of the Kir-Yianni label as well as distribution for a portfolio of similar-minded producers.
Mihalis devoted his ample intellect and energy to establishing a plan consistent with his father’s precedent of experimentation and innovation. In the case of the traditional variety Xinomavro, this has meant dividing the property into small parcels in order to analyse and micromanage vine cultivation. His father had already determined that white varieties were more suited to the more continental climate of the Vegoritis and Grypas estates in Amyndaio, where he is steward as part of a consulting agreement.
The white varieties were, therefore, replanted with red at Yiannakohori, and production of Oreino (mountain) Roditis, Gewürztraminer and Chardonnay at Vegoritis is now incorporated under the Kir-Yianni label. This arrangement allows Mihalis to focus his efforts on matching red varieties and even specific clones of varieties to their ideal locations in the estate’s vineyards. Genetic analysis is being undertaken to isolate genes that will help identify Xinomavro clones that are particularly suited to specific vineyard plots. Production from each parcel will be vinified separately, evaluated on its merits, then blended (or not) according to its nature. Merlot is cultivated both as ameliorator and varietal and Syrah for solo vinification. Organic farming is an important part of the consistent production of top quality fruit the estate is seeking to achieve. It also keeps yields naturally low.
Yet clearly both the science and art of winemaking are in his blood, as is a deep and poetic reverence of nature. The wines from Kir-Yianni reflect the creed that wines are truly created in the vineyard. Honest and unabashed, their wild side is allowed expression, only balanced and framed during vinification. Therein lies their sophistication – tannin is part and parcel with the vineyard.
On the tasting, I was impressed with the new age of Kir-Yianni’s wines, the likes of the harmonious 2003 Samaropetra, a blend of Roditis, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewurztraminer, an elegant blend of grapefruit and white peaches. The tart rosé from 2003 Akakies, from Xinomavro with an acidity, which is exclusively married to flavours of wild strawberries. The Xinomavro Agiorgitiko blend of 2001 Paranga has aromas of green peppers and spices prevailing, with notes of cinnamon and vanilla on the palate.
Now that the shuffling is over, the Boutaris are getting down to serious business in both the Yiannakohori and Amyndaio vineyards.
Wine of the week
2000 Ramnistas, Xinomavro. Alcohol volume 13.5%. Distributed by ACM Christofides LTD Tel: 22 764371
THE red dry flagship of Kyr-Yianni, from Xinomavro vinified in the oldest vineyards of the estate in Ramnistas the highest sub-zone of Naousa. Kept for 12 months in oak barrels and two years in bottle this red puts fireworks in your mouth from the abounding tannin. This is a pale red, round and firm, delicious but delicate with the best fruits of Xinomavro shinning through. Floral intensity and a finely chiseled terroir profile. Strawberry and spice end taste, a classy first rate Naousa. Copes well with stifado and meats with strong flavours and spices served at 18ºC.
