They’ve come a long way since the turkeys

DOMAINE HADJIMICHALIS

READERS have to forgive me for presenting wineries from overseas but our wine merchants have been very active lately with presentations, therefore when trying interesting wine I consider it my duty to inform. Last month, Cava Protasis introduced Domaine Hadjimichalis to the Cyprus oenophiles.

Dimitris Hadjimichalis opened his estate in Atalanti – a hot tobacco-growing region north of Athens – in 1973. In the early 1980s he played an important role in altering the face of the Greek wine industry. Although the seeds of revolution in Greece had already been planted, he was one of only a small group of producers in an ocean of bulk wine whose goals were to succeed in creating products of international stature; Hadjimichalis was the first of these producers to hit a bull’s eye.

By the mid-1980s, Hadjimichalis had become a household name in Greece and created a prestige label among the Greek Diaspora. Commanding – for the era – premium prices, his wines nevertheless found wide acceptance. Proving the existence of demand for upscale products and initiating the trend in earnest, Hadjimichalis was the first to break the hold of the four or five large companies that had previously held the market in a tight grip.

To say that his is not necessarily a Cinderella story does nothing to diminish this achievement, for it would have taken exemplary business acumen and marketing instincts to accomplish what he did. During the early years, the ex-electronics importer financed the operation by housing a turkey farm on the property, as he awaited the maturation of his initial nine hectares of vines. The turkeys moved on long ago, but one still remains on the company logo.

Following the long run at the pinnacle of a market segment of his own making, competition began streaming in. Still, the new upscale market continued to grow (as has the winery) and loyalty to the brand has remained sufficiently strong that Hadjimichalis today sells a million bottles annually, still no small potatoes by Greek standards.
It is said that the site in Atalante was chosen more for its romantic association with its ancient wine traditions than for its modern potential. He has a profound interest in things oeno-archaeological, and this may have been a consideration, though the strategic location of the vineyard for distribution purposes is slightly more striking.

The winery produces a substantial range of products, whose quality and price can be expected to vary. The portfolio is large at about 18 labels. The prodigious output of the company is supplied by 130 hectares of estate vineyards supplemented with additional purchases of grapes and wine from local and regional sources. White varieties consist of Robola, Asyrtiko, Roditis, Savatiano, and Athiri, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Red varieties include Xinomavro, Limnio, Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah, Grenache, and Carrignan. At the tasting, we found good value and good quality.
Most importantly, we found a few shinning stars, most notably the terroir driven 2003 Laas (£7.19), a blend of Athiri, Asyrtiko and Robola grown together in the upland Traganoudes vineyard or the 2003 Chardonnay (£6.90) with a dried apple and honey nose and a full-oak aftertaste, a simple Chardonnay expression. The 2002 Merlot (£15.47) had a beautiful smokey nose, good tannin profile and mature fruit. It had a real body.
Hadjimichalis remains an important figure in the Greek wine industry. Intelligent, studied and a brilliant business mind, his passion for wine and commerce can be expected to keep him in the spotlight as the new, more complex fabric of Greek wine continues to develop.

For more information contact Cava Protasis 25-732180/99-645334

Wine of the week

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Domaine Hadjimichalis, Alcohol volume 12.5% Price £8.16

This is a soft wine, best for consuming in its youth. While the medium length body is not what you would have expected from a classic Cabernet varietal matured in French barrels and in bottle for 36 months, it has a sweet nose, round middle and quiet attractive finish. It displays none of the cedar and eucalyptus associated with many of the hot, earthy Cabernets of Southern Greece. A nose full of blackcurrant and sweet vanilla. Easy to dink on its own at 18ºC with soft cheeses or Parmegiana, red meats especially roast. This is easy-drinking wine, a fact that may explain its wide popularity in Greece.

Kosta for pictures visit www.hatzimichalis.gr

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