To die for
What is it about chocolate that so inspires us? And how sweet is the industry in Cyprus?
Is chocolate really worthy of monopolising so many of any magazine’s preciously rationed pages? Is chocolate worth all the odes, sonnets, books and movies dedicated to it? Does that question really have to be asked?
Spending a night locked up in a Chocolaterie, consumed by chocolate euphoria and sinful bliss is a valid dream. There is something undeniably mystical, romantic, decadent and sensual about chocolate. It has been celebrated for centuries for its uniquely luxurious qualities. Chocolate, in all its manifestations, has played an intrinsic part of life from the ancient Aztec and Mayan civilizations to the Monks of Rome. It finally spread to London in the mid-seventeenth century and today, master chocolatiers oppose moves by major manufacturers to ‘dilute’ the quality of chocolate by replacing intrinsic ingredients with commonly available vegetable fats.
Perhaps it is the mass commodity element of this ancient and symbolic delight that has led legions of clubs and societies around the world to develop fraternities of chocolate lovers. It’s symbolic, historical, aphrodisiac and even religions qualities are resurrected through annual exhibitions and shows dedicated to this inspirational food of the gods.
This year, New York City is hosting its 8th Annual Chocolate Show; an exhibition that had its beginnings in the Salon du Chocolat in Paris, and has taking the world by storm. Over the years, the aim has moved from international chocolate houses and producers showing their wares to international chocolatiers entering in gastronomic completions and this year, New York has really outdone itself by giving the public a kaleidoscope of chocolate sensations. This year’s show includes a chocolate Spa, chocolate artwork, a chocolate cocktail lounge and chocolate couture. Needless to say, that as a chocolate junkie, I was gutted that our small island of love did not experiment in such unconventional artistic fancies. And then, as though the Belgian godmother of all things cocoa-based heard me, the Four Seasons hotel in Limassol announced it was hosting Sweet Temptation at the Colors Caf? as a celebration of their finest chocolate.
It can take an entire lifetime to unearth one’s true passion but when I met Yiannos Gregoriou, Executive Pasty Chef at the Four Seasons, I knew he was truly in love with his vocation. A chocolatier by profession, with initial training in Paris, he then furthered his art in Belgium. He then went on to learn the coveted secrets of ice cream in Italy. He’s been at Four Seasons since its inception. “I started as a pastry cook under a Swiss pastry chef, and then I worked with a German pastry chef, and after five years, the management gave me the chance to set free my creativity. And I think we are a successful team”. The mastermind behind the ten-day chocolate extravaganza has a wealth of knowledge regarding the intricacies of the art of chocolate making. His work, pieces made entirely from chocolate, is exquisitely detailed; the glossy melt-in-the-mouth finishes leaving lingering aromas of praline, milk chocolate and cacao – a chocolate lover’s ultimate fantasy.
Yiannos’ inspiration for the exhibition ultimately came from the Salon du Chocolat. “When I was in Paris, the Salon organised a competition from all over the world; the best chocolatiers from different countries were there. Actually, two years ago, we had a Belgian journalist at the hotel and he was very excited by our collection of chocolates and cakes; and he gave me the idea to craft a chocolate show so people can experience what he did. So I went to Salon du Chocolat; to get some inspiration from there. And this is the outcome.”
And what an outcome! Bite-sized pastilles of praline chocolates presented as literally, little pieces of heaven in a box. The Sicilian Pistachio is milk chocolate with roasted pistachio cream; the Hazelnut Praline comprises 70% cocoa bitter chocolate cream giandura. The lime lemon is filled with lime cream with fondant chocolate; and the Quatre Epices are honey-flavoured chocolates with four spices. Need I go on?
The Chocolate Show in New York presented Yiannos with the best timing to launch his chocolate collection. All the chocolate used to create these handmade masterpieces is imported from Belgium; the expert artistic inspiration comes from Yiannos and his team of seventeen professionals. Yiannos is zealous about the origin of his chocolate, “Quality chocolate has a specific amount of cocoa butter and cocoa mass. And this depends on the kind of chocolate. For dark chocolate or couvertoure it starts from 53 – 55% cacao and can reach up to 80%. We use the best Belgian chocolate with 53% and 75% cocoa.”
This is all very well and good. But for your average foodie, what does this all mean? How are we to distinguish between the good, the bad and the downright delectable chocolate? “For the moment, people in Cyprus know chocolate only from the supermarkets,” Yiannos adds with a trace of resignation. “But in mainland Europe, it is common for people to buy speciality chocolate boxes, for the home or to give as gifts. We try and do our best to present the best quality chocolates accompanied with tasteful fillings in the hope that people will acquire a taste for quality. This is something new for Cyprus – to have a quality chocolate box at home.”
Having had my appetite for chocolate knowledge modestly satisfied, it was time to delve deeper into the psyche of the Cypriot chocolate consumer and so to the mammoth home-grown factory and think-tank of what is the biggest and most-successful confectionary company in Cyprus – Frou Frou.
All Frou Frou brand chocolates and chocolate-based products are made on the island. “Our ingredients and materials are top-quality and come from top quality suppliers from all over Europe. For example, we look to France for our cocoa-butter, for sugar we look to another country and so on,” said Katia Lambrou of the marketing department.
The sale of chocolates has boomed by 50 per cent over the last few decades and it is commercial confectionary that is largely responsible for this – think Mars, Twix, Kit-Kat, Flake and Smarties. British and American consumers are the most devoted consumers of these chocolates and have modified their production techniques towards them. “Our milk chocolate is geared for the Cypriot consumer, and we use a British-type recipe as opposed to the Swiss or Belgian, because this is what Cypriots are used to,” said Katia. The Swiss have developed a taste for chocolate with a high milk content, in Belgium, chocolate is richer in cream and melts more easily; and the French prefer it with less sugar and fat in order to let the taste of good-quality beans come through. To serve Cypriot consumers, the company has a team of researchers and developers, and on occasion international experts, to develop recipes and tastes closer to British chocolates.
To keep up with our changing trends, the company continually produces a few new or redesigned products every year. However, production cannot quite meet the demands of the local market, so the company is not able to export local products. “Chocolate is becoming more in vogue now,” added Katia, “there are many healthy aspects to it, including overcoming stress. And personally, I eat lot of chocolate. I love it!” And so, the universal love affair with chocolate continues.
CHOC-FULL of HEALTH
Chocolate is irrevocably one of the world’s healthiest foods and does not merit its ‘wicked’ reputation
* Dark Chocolate is rich in potassium, magnesium and phosphorous
* Chocolate may prevent free radical damage that can lead to cancer, prevent heart disease, enhance our immune system.
* Like some other plant foods, chocolate is full of a wide range of antioxidant compounds called polyphenols
. The amount of polyphenols in milk chocolate is equivalent to that of five servings of fruits and vegetables.
* Chocolate is a mood-enhancer. It contains phenethylamine which stimulates the nervous system, triggering the release of endorphins (opiate-like compounds) that dull pain and give a sense of well-being.
* There are also chemicals in chocolate that increase the activity of dopamine, a neurotransmitter directly associated with feelings of sexual arousal and pleasure.
* Chocolate can boost brain levels of serotonin – the happy neurotransmitter – especially in women, who tend to be more sensitive to chocolate than men.
* Good quality chocolates, made with real cocoa-butter (about 70 per cent cocoa) will not damage your waistline
And no, chocolate is not a causal factor in migraines, acne, constipation or indigestion.
Death by Chocolate
Its amazing the amount of books that have been written on the subject of Chocolate: Chocolat by Joanne Harris, Enid Futterman’s Bittersweet Journey and Roald Dahl’s classic Charlie and the Chocolate Factory. Below are a few sweet treasures to add to any collection:
The Seven Deadly Sins of Chocolate
Just the title evokes images of sinfully delicious mouthfuls of temping delights. This unique cookbook explores unique tastes interrelated with each sin. Favourites include Banana Jam with Chocolate under Sloth; Red Fruit Chocolate Tarts go nicely with Anger; and why not try Pears Belle-H?l?ne when feeling Lustful?
£21.00
Real Chocolate
With over 50 inspiring recipes for chocolate indulgence. This book offers all this and so much more. For those of you who thought chocolate is just for desserts, think again. As well as exotic puddings, drinks, biscuits and cakes, Real Chocolate shows you how to use this brown gold in endlessly creative ways – Chocolate Balsamic Vinager, Chocolate Sushi, Roast Lamb with Chocolate, Anchovy and Capers, and even Vegan Chocolate Biscotti.
By Rococo Chantal Coady, £14.99
Chocolate
The word says it all. This book is a visual masterpiece and a culinary delight. The gorgeously simple photographs beautifully complement the irresistibly luscious recipes – roasted caramelised almonds, truffles, and chocolate bread-and-butter pudding. There are recipes to impress and recipes for children.
By Trish Deseine, £12.99
Chocolate Cocktails
Chocolate Martini
1½ shots chocolate liqueur (Godiva is a good choice)
1½ shots cr?me de cacao
½ shot vodka
2½ shots half-and-half
Mix all ingredients in a shaker with ice, shake and pour into a chilled cocktail glass
Chocolate Black Russian
1oz Kahlua coffee liqueur
½oz vodka
5oz chocolate ice-cream
Combine all ingredients in an electric blender and blend at low speed for a short length of time. Pour into a chilled champagne flute and serve
World of Pleasures
It has to be said, there is no such thing as too much chocolate. Indulgence is a top priority of any chocolate lover. We’ve picked out some of the most divinely chocolaty treasures to add to your chocolate box:
Boaters Rich Hazelnut Coffee
Warning! Once you discover the Boaters selection of Coffees, there is NO turning back. Whether hot or cold, the flavours, aromas and taste of these coffees are sensational. Coffee always makes a sublime accompaniment to chocolate; it is truly a marriage of melting pleasures.
£1.55
Lindt Almond Swiss Milk Chocolate
I would describe this chocolate as literally little cups of perfection. The maker of this creamy chocolate, Rudolphe Lindt (1823-1893) was the father of fondant chocolate. He perfected this level of smoothness through a new refining process.
£0.98
Clipper Organic Caramel Chocolate
Using only organically cultivated ingredients, Clipper has elevated drinking chocolate to new heights. And its low fat too.
£0.68 per sachet
Apivita Aromatherapy Euphoria Milk Bath
This creamy shower gel has the delicious active ingredients of Ylang-ylang, vanillia, essential oils, white chocolate and white tea extract. The essential oils offer euphoria and a romantic mood while cocoa butter softens and nourishes skin. Other products in the Euphoria line include body lotion and body scrub.
From £6.40. Available at selected pharmacies
