Last week we have put forward the question of whether Cyprus wine could compete abroad. As things currently stand, there is no evidence to prove that this is possible. There are no guaranties and solutions vary.
In Tom Stevenson’s Global Reports he is particular on communication. Cyprus must learn to communicate clear, positive messages about its identity and wines. Not many wine drinkers in the west know where Cyprus is, let alone what our wines are all about. This, of course, comes down to communication.
Cypriot producers must be encouraged to work together and support each other in the way those from Australia and New Zealand have done with so much success. Looking backwards and inwards is a major failing. We must impose wine laws in line with the EU. Fragmented land holdings and lack of integration remain enormous problems across the island. Quality and consistency must be put right. Wineries then must learn to work together to promote, educate and raise awareness of their wines, while government and state regulators need to support go-ahead producers, not tie them up in regulations.
This covers the administrative and legislative part. There were other suggestions too that involve the vineyards. As I mentioned last week, we are not in a position yet to produce good, value for money and cheap wine to compete. Moreover, our indigenous grape varieties, from what we have experienced so far, do not make outstanding wines compared with the same category of wines from abroad. So, what do we do?
Solutions do exist but require time, money and sacrifices. Yiannos Constantinou of Politis newspaper suggested in his weekly column that we should go Greek. He had in mind two grapes: Nemea’s Agiorgitico and Santorini’s Assyrtiko. He simply stated that these grapes produce outstanding quality wines and secondly they can thrive in our dry and warm climate. The grapes are Greek varieties and they can easily be identified as Cypriot by foreign consumers. For some years now Australians are experimenting with Agiorgitico. They have recognised that this grape can produce great wines. He argues that there is a lot of effort and trust been put on Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay. These grape varieties, continues the writer, may be used as blends with the Greek varieties, for example an Assyrtiko-Sauvignon Blanc or an Agiorgitico with Cabernet Sauvignon.
Personally, I think it is worth trying for the reasons the author mentions. However, I am also convinced that recent efforts by Tsiakkas’ Pelendri winery with Bambatzia, a synonym to Maratheftiko, and Fikardos Lefkada still give some hope to the indigenous grape varieties of Cyprus. And yet we have not tried Yiannoudi, Canella, Morocanella etc, some of the unknown indigenous grape varieties on the island. We hope that these grape varieties can produce some good quality grapes.
Moreover, I still believe that Xinisteri can make a good white in the foreign markets provided that it is blended with the elite of grapes, like Chardonnay and better still, Semillon. I have not given up on Maratheftiko yet and Tsiakkas Bambatzia is encouraging. All suggestions though are leading us to one serious conclusion: the need for the total re-organisation of the vineyards. And, in many cases, starting all over again. This definitely requires time and money but most importantly knowhow and expertise. Outside help should be more than welcome.
Among the myriads of Chardonnays and Cabernet Sauvignons of this world we stand no chance in breaking into the export market. It is already saturated. As it stands, only Commandaria can – and should – put Cyprus on the vinus map. This is the ultimate Cyprus wine, with a future career abroad, with a proven uniqueness and identity, that can command higher prices, and the one that is most respected by the world’s wine connoisseurs.
These are mere thoughts. We have to act and we have to act now.
Wine of the week
2003 Fikardos Lefkada, Pafos, Alcohol Volume 13.5 %
Lefkada is a grape variety indigenous to Cyprus. Fikardos Lefkada is 70% blended with 5% Merlot 5% Mataro 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Shiraz. This is a wine that has been recently commented on by Decanter magazine, along with Fikardos Amalthia. Garnet red with an exotic nose, roses and sweet spices mixed together. Medium-bodied, the wine has spent 16 months in oak barrels. Black fruit jam flavours, a bit harsh tannins, balanced oak though. Its full potential will be judged in 2 to 4 years. Served at 18?C, the wine is ideal for roast pork and turkey dishes (what about this Xmas?), and medium cheese.
