Rancho
A lot more than just a steak-house
Forget those pasta houses, Rancho will leave you itching for another visit
THE Mediterranean diet is heralded as the healthiest of them all but, given the chance, Cypriots will gladly sink their teeth into a tender chunk of animal flesh. Add this lust for meat to a distinctly South American vibe and you’re instantly whisked away to the fittingly named ‘Rancho Bar & Grill’ in the Lakatamia area of Nicosia.
To my mind, there is a distinct surplus of choice when it comes to Italian food in the capital, so a visit to this dimly-lit eatery will re-direct your taste buds away from those havens of stodge. Upon arrival, and following your refreshingly easy access to a spacious parking lot, you’re faced by what appears to be an old, renovated house, with a sign on its front gate redirecting you to the ‘Garden entrance.’ Immediately you know that you’ve escaped the busy hustle and bustle of central Nicosia. A stroll down the pathway leads to the eating area.
I’ve never visited the Americas, but if this restaurant is anything to go by, they will definitely be among my list of possible future destinations. A calm breeze, accompanied by the gentle wind created by the overhead fans, brings a refreshing tingle to your demeanour as you are seated. The garden’s wooden, rustic guise calms the senses, and the light sound of falling water emanating from the distant fountain enables you to slump comfortably into your chair and anticipate what’s to follow. The fountain, situated at the back of the garden, is located at the head of a stretch of lush green grass, which is presumably used as a catering area for larger gatherings. The palm trees and willows hang with an air of relaxation, unusually refreshing for a restaurant area in Nicosia.
But, as we all know, restaurants have been fashioned to fill your stomach and drain your wallet – a cynicism Rancho refuses to share. Plainly and simply, Rancho is a grill, a steak-house in layman’s terms, which specialises in meat dishes. My beautiful companion and I decided to entertain that clich? and opted for the Duke Fillet steak, a dish recommended by close acquaintances. For those whose meticulousness includes the comparison between ‘medium’ and ‘well-done’ steaks, Rancho suffices that quality with nonchalant success. Your knife will simply glide through the meat, and if B?arnaise sauce tickles your fancy, spread it at will. The plush green salad and freshly-cooked fries provide the perfect accompaniment to a delicious meal, and may even tempt you for course numero 2.
Wine enthusiasts will be pleased to note the wide variety of their passion available. My meal was helped along by a 2002 Chilean red called Santa Digna Cabernet Sauvignon, combining the flavours of the dark fruits of the forest. As for the service, I have decided to label it ‘silent but friendly.’ A pleasant glance and a smile, but precious little by way of interaction.
Lasting impressions are many, and congratulatory at that. Ranchos’ mastermind Chris Georgiades has created a gastronomic sanctuary in the name of good, hearty food, whose ambiance is accentuated by the light red-Indian music humming away in the background. The Americas may be somewhere on my list of places to visit, perhaps hindered by the cost of undertaking such a venture, but Rancho is pushing up near the top of my favoured eating destinations, but also goes easy on my wallet.
VITAL STATISTICS
SPECIALITY Steak
SEATING 150 (outside), 100 (inside)
WHERE Strovolos Avenue, Nicosia
CONTACT 22 382838
BOOKING Advisable
PRICE £35 for two with wine
