The reopening of the Omeriye bath in Nicosia gives an insight into the island’s history in addition to the opportunity to relax
ALL I was wearing was a towel and a pair of disposable knickers. I am very comfortable with my body but it took some time for me to get used to the fact that I had to sit around in my birthday suit among other women. They all seemed comfortable lying on their backs with bits falling everywhere and as many of them were past the first flush of youth, I thought ‘What the hell?’ and let the towel fall. I was in the new Hamam in Nicosia and I was determined to sweat and relax with or without my clothes.
I had been out late the previous night and thought that a visit to the restored Omeriye Bath (Hamam) in the old town of Nicosia was more than a good idea. Welcomed by manager Soteris Pavlou and Alexandra I began relaxing as soon as I entered the Hamam lobby. My bag was put in a locker and I was shown to my mini suite where I was to change. The lobby is shaped like a dome with a bar in the middle and a huge chandelier hanging from the ceiling. Chill-out music was playing subtly in the background and I was asked to switch off my mobile! Each customer can change behind closed curtains among many cushions in an elevated booth, which surround the lobby. I was given a basket containing a bottle of water, a large and small towel, a shower cap, a pair of slippers and a pair of disposable knickers. “You can change into these and give me a shout when you are ready, so I can show you into the Hamam,” said Alexandra. As it was my first visit, the disposable knickers were every bit as terrifying as I had heard they were but I gritted my teeth, wrapped myself up in my towel, grabbed the water and sponge and headed towards the baths.
As Sundays are for women only, on my way to the baths I passed many relaxing in their ‘suites’ enjoying a cup of herbal tea, offered after the Hamam. The building is old, originally built by the Franks as a church and later transformed into a Hamam by the Ottomans in the late 16th century. “The building has a perfect character, with great things to offer,” said Pavlou. “It was the first Hamam in the 1500s and there were no baths and showers back then so Ottomans and Christians would come here once a week.” Despite the building’s age, the Omeriye Bath is fully equipped with modern necessities and impressively decorated. Candles are placed almost everywhere as well as mirrors. Just before I was to enter the baths, Alexandra explained to one of the staff that I was to be scrubbed down and looked after. “Scrubbed down?” I asked. “Don’t worry, you’ll love it,” Alexandra said, “Put on your shower cap, have a shower and you can go in.”
So, there I was, all alone in my towel. I took a shower, had a sip of water and opened the big wooden door leading to the Hamam. It was hot, steamy and bodies were everywhere. I whispered a polite ‘hello’ and found a free spot to sit down and figure out what I was supposed to do. The actual Hamam inside is huge. In the middle lies a big chunk of marble and several smaller ones around with taps next to each piece of marble, where visitors can wash down or give themselves a scrub. Now, where was I? Oh, at the point where I was going to sit down. Well, at this stage it is prudent to lay down the towel before sitting down, or splash the marble with some water, because it is hot and you don’t want to suffer any burns. After this, all there is to it is to relax. Just sit, or lie, and do absolutely nothing. Of course, I’m not used to being in a room with steam coming out of the floor, so every now and then I would pop out for some water and fresh air. “The hot and steamy bath is good for the bones and body,” said Pavlou, “and is very therapeutic both internally and externally. We recommend customers use it for around 30 minutes and then lie in the cubicles for a good rest.”
Well actually there was a little bit more to it than that, I still had to have my body scrub. And this, was a real treat and an amazing experience. I lay on the marble as the member of staff put on a glove, which removes dead cells by scrubbing the body. Back and front was scrubbed, as I slowly began too relax and actually notice a difference on my skin. As each side was finished and scrubbed down, warm water was thrown over me, which felt very different to having a bath. The body peeling experience takes about 20 minutes and throughout this time I was also massaged for a few minutes. “We are finished,” I heard a voice say as I desperately tried to open my eyes and sit up.
From that moment, I was almost blissfully unaware of my surroundings. All I can say is that it was back to my ‘suite’ for a quick rest before heading out to make a repeat booking for next week.
What do you get
Hot stone massage £40
Traditional body peeling £6
Body peeling with ethereal/aromatic oils £8
Simple hamam £10
Relaxing massage (30mins steamy area of hamam) £12
Relaxing massage (50mins cool area of hamam) £20
Chinese massage £25
Aromatherapy massage £25
Hamam Omeryie, Tyllirias Square, Old Town Nicosia. Tel: 22 750550 or 22 460570
Mondays: 11-5 pm tours only
Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays for men 9am to 9pm
Wednesday, Friday and Sunday for women only 9am to 9pm
Hamam history
THE TRADITION of the Turkish baths extends far back even before Turks had reached Anatolia. When they arrived in Anatolia they brought the tradition with them and then it became an institution.
But gradually, it became something more than just a place where skin was cleaned. It was an everyday habit where everyone was welcome. Poor, rich, young, old, men and women, but of course the different sexes made use of the hamam at separate hours. The hamam was a familiar place from the earliest weeks of one’s life right up to its very end.
Important occasions during a lifetime were, and in some places still are, celebrated with rejoicing at the bath. The newborn’s fortieth day, the brides’ bathing complete with food and live music, and the Avowal are instances. The latter requires some explanation, because it involved the custom that was common in Anatolia, of making a promise or vow, contingent on the completion of some important wish. The celebration of this in the hamam was arranged and paid for by the person fulfilling his vow, and was open to one and all.
The Turkish bath was also a beautician’s school where they learned and practiced care of the body and hair and the donning of make-up. And it was here that women, kept almost exclusively indoors, could best relax and enjoy the freedom of a day to themselves.
The fame of The Turkish bath, then, resides in it bringing together many dimensions of the society’s culture to create a new phenomenon. The hamam has long been an institution in Turkey, with a deep social character that is capable of shedding light on many aspects of Turkish life.
