Withering heights
In terms of quality, the bar for Cyprus wines has been raised
AS COMPETITION from abroad increases, Cypriot wineries find themselves pitted against one another in a bid to maintain local market share. A lot has been written before on how to achieve this and the Photiades family seem to hit the jackpot with the creation of the Kyperounda Winery.
It was the vision of the Photiades family in conjunction with local wine growers and the expertise of the Greek Boutari family, which created this exciting new development. From the outside, Kyperounda winery looks very traditional. But inside, the Photiades family was busily overseeing the construction of a modern winery. The official opening of the Kyperounda Winery took place at the beginning of this month.
But the man who builds the reputation of Kyperounda Winery is its oenologist Minas Mina. He is young, industrious and a true professional in his field. As we already have discovered in this column, Minas first releases last year of Andessitis, Petritis and the two varietals, the oaked Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, caught everybody by surprise. The bar on quality has been raised.
At 1,400m above sea level, there was a reason to celebrate that day. While a classical quartet was playing its classical repertoire in the cellar we had been given the chance to taste the new releases for 2005. As a mark of respect, this week the “Wine of the week” section is accommodating four wines.
2003 Petritis, Xinisteri, Alcohol volume 12%
One of the most complex and interesting dry Xinisteri based wines on the island by far. The grapes are form vineyards in Kyperounda and the name derives from the rockiness of the vineyards set within the mountain terraces. The colour is pale yellow with light green reflections, and it has a complex nose and palate of fresh white fruit peach and pears along with green herbs. On the palate there is a delicious mélange of green apples, gooseberries and soft ripe peaches that assault the senses. Good acidity freshness for a one-year-old Xinisteri. Served at 9ºC, accompany this wine with a green salad and fried Mediterranean fish.
2003 Andessitis, Cabernet Sauvignon-Grenache Rouge-Mataro Alcohol Volume 13%
The andesite rock characteristic of this part of Cyprus was the inspiration for this wine’s name. This is a blend of three grape varieties Cabernet Sauvignon 60%, Grenache Rouge 30% and Mataro 10% originating from Kyperounda, Omodhos and Pachna villages. The three varieties are processed separately and then blended in the desired proportions. Intense plum colour, still a fresh dry wine, with clean fruit bouncing around the glass. It has plumy, raspberry, jummy aromas and a chewy tannin palate that fills out with liquorice and black plum fruit. It is beginning to open up and with a little time it will really come on its own. Served at 17ºC, it has four years ageing potential and it is ideal with roast pork or grilled pork chop, semi hard cheeses, and lightly spiced fried meatballs.
2003 Chardonnay, Alcohol Volume 13%
This wine in its very first vintage (2002) won bronze metal at the prestigious 12th Annual Chardonnay Du Monde Competition in France – where it competed against 1,400 of the best Chardonnay wines from all over the world. The alcoholic fermentation is completed in new oak barrels for six months. Delicate straw colour, the nose is rich slightly honeyed, with plenty of fresh grapefruit and appealing pear and apple. The palate is big, with textured mouth feel and fine bright acidity. There is a sensitive use of oak, long and elegant finish. Served at 11ºC, do not hesitate to try this wine with citrus salads, seafood and poached oily fish – salmon, especially with creamy sauces. It can be cellared for four more years.
2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, Alcohol Volume 13%
Again the 2002 vintage won a gold medal at the celebrated 2004 Greek wine competition in Thessalonica at Oenorama. Deep and purple, this Cabernet has a rich aromatic black fruit jam and raspberry nose with an underlying smoky, savoury style and spicy scents with touches of chocolate and vanilla. It has a softer feel on the palate than its predecessor, with silky tannins and a ripeness of forest fruit flavours, and a touch of minerals that run through into a persistent finish. It matures for one year in French oak followed by six months bottle –aging. Served at 18ºC with your barbecued red meats, stews and charcuteries.
