A three-day trip to Damascus should satisfy anyone’s retail therapy needs
DAMASCUS was once the trading capital of the Arab world. Merchants stopped there on their way to India and China, buying and selling spices and carpets. Today, it’s a Cypriot shopping mecca for anything from tailor-made curtains and blinds to seriously intimidating curved daggers.
Over a quarter of a million Cypriots annually take a Friday night, hour-long flight from Larnaca to Damascus intent upon satisfying their urge to splurge. On check in at Larnaca, you encounter massed ranks of enormous voluminous suitcases, the combined packing power of which could easily accommodate the entire shopping needs of every citizen in Pissouri.
Regulars have carefully thought out the luggage situation: they bring one carry-on bag containing minimum clothing and toiletries and two hard-framed suitcases in which rest, like Russian dolls, a nest of nylon duffle bags, smaller suitcases and holdalls.
Ask anyone who’s done this trip. The plain truth is that this organised approach to one’s luggage requirements allows for shopping at full throttle. So, take two days out of your life and spend them, well, spending.
For the shopaholic the essence of Damascus is to be found in and around the souks and open markets of the old city and first thing Saturday morning we were en route with our guide to visit Al Ghabra, the famous curtain shop set in the heart of the city.
The brief was thus: assist (and act as pack mules) two friends in the selection of material for the 16 (currently naked) windows in their new house. This newly-married couple had previously priced curtains in Paphos and had been quoted £2,000 with a two-week delivery time.
The only problem we encountered at Al Ghabra was in choosing from the huge variety of fabrics available but by 11:30am we had ‘lift off’ on choice, then, it was a case of meticulously writing down all the measurements, noting the type of finish needed, plus linings etc and after more glasses of mint tea we left the shop, highly delighted with the bargain price (and better quality material than that quoted in Paphos) of £450, with promise of delivery the next day at 3pm.
Now we know where curtain companies in Cyprus travel to satisfy their local customer base. One shop-owner on our trip admitted she flies over twice a month to have her customers’ curtains, blinds and throws made in Damascus, and with the low travel costs her mark up is exceedingly healthy. Wedding dresses are another rich source of profit for our local tradesmen; a wedding outfit for bride and bridesmaids made to measure from your own design in Damascus will set you back a meagre £350, the same ensemble imported into Cyprus could not have you walking down the aisle for less than £2,000.
The real star in this theatre of retail is the souk near the Umayyad mosque. This vast market, covered by a curved corrugated iron roof, pockmarked with holes that let in shafts of light is without doubt a shopper’s paradise. Everything from beautiful brocades, toys, baby clothes, backgammon sets, rugs, scarves, truly kitsch chandeliers, bright orange ‘bling bling’ gold, belly dancer outfits, provocative bras, and downright mind boggling G strings (think birds nest, music, and feathers) is on show.
Men wander around scaring the living daylights out of you, as they proffer sets of stuffed buzzards as a suitable accessory for your living room. Socks at £1 for 10 pairs may indeed sound like a bargain but first open up the packet to ensure they have the all important ‘feet’ part.
High quality Persian carpets are increasingly rare but very good buys can still be had with mid-range decorative carpets and kilims. Watch out for inlaid boxes and backgammon sets, but beware as most are varnished veneer with fake mother of pearl.
Regardless of some dodgy stuff being in evidence, this is a place which richly rewards those who are resourceful rummagers. Another travelling companion and I were on on for gold when we snapped up six gorgeous pashminas for £4, plus a pure wool coat for £30, table cloths for £3 each and a king-size cotton sheet and two matching pillow cases for £4. We went on to buy tracksuits, brocade throws, table runners plus a nargylas (hubble bubble pipe) and even a set of bongo drums (they were SUCH a bargain), a Bedouin tapestry for a bed head (£5) and four delicate lacquered boxes (total price £10).
Everywhere there are gossiping merchants sat behind neat mounds of clothes, spices, nuts, scarves, bundles of cloth and towers of hand-made soaps in scenes that have barely changed over the centuries. In every shop we were welcomed, offered a chair to rest our weary feet then a glass of tea was borne on a small silver tray, serving to remind visitors that the old desert hospitality is still in evidence here as is the dessert itself.
At 3pm on Sunday the aforementioned curtains duly arrived at our hotel. All were perfect. Then there was just time to satiate our last retail urges by buying a carved mirror from the shop in the foyer of the hotel before packing and that’s when humanity’s biggest questions do tend to come; the meaning of life in the overhead compartment?
Successful? Well let’s just say the tour company anticipate wisely – they put on two extra mini buses just to cater for our groups ‘shopping’ luggage.
Jill went to Syria courtesy of Skevi travel, flying Cyprus Airways to Damascus for £160, including B&B and all transfers. All visas, hotel, transportation, tours and guides are managed by Skevi Travel, the recognised expert on Syria. Those holding a passport bearing an entry stamp from Israel will be refused entry to Syria. From the end of March there will be a once-weekly flight to Damascus from Paphos. Skevi Travel, 12 Pireos Street, 2023 Strovolos, Nicosia. Tel: 22 442055, Fax: 22 442054 e-mail: [email protected]
Top Purchases
Bespoke curtains, blinds and nets Not only will you be overwhelmed by the choice of fabric, but the prices are great. Don’t gamble with being tempted to buy for windows you haven’t measured. Prices from about a quarter of what you would expect to pay in Cyprus.
Bed linen the cotton in Syria is exquisite so although modern patterns may not be part of the repertoire, there should be some basics to suit. Again, expect to pay about 25 per cent of Cyprus prices
Throws It all happens in the fabric department in Syria. Give your room a new look at a bargain price. From £3 to £8
Damask tablecloths They are not called Damask because they come from somewhere other than Damascus. Whatever the shape of your table, there will be one to suit. From £5 to £10
Kilims Although antique large specimens are becoming a bit of a rarity, smaller ones abound and are well worth haggling for. From £15 to £45
Enamelled boxes Just make sure what you are buying is the real thing. From £3 to £20
Jewellery Sold by the gram and the colour of the gold is rather more orange than we are used to. Expect to pay about a quarter of what you would here.
Kids clothes Style might be a bit lacking sometimes but the fact they are less than half price goes some way to compensating for that
Wedding dresses As with curtains, there is an army of people ready to make a dress to your specifications. £300 will also get you two bridesmaids outfits
Pashminas For a bit of style from the souk and to waste the rest of your Syrian money. £3 to £8
All these prices are obtainable without too much haggling although a little bit is expected
