Wines from St Joseph, in the Rhône valley have a long history
THE Rhône river valley in southeastern France is a grape growing and producing area famed for its red wines. The region is just under 150 miles long (north to south) and lies between the cities of Lyon in the north and Avignon in the south. There are 16 specific appellations that cover an area of more than 41,000 hectares. All qualities of wine are produced here, from Appellation Controllée to Vin de Table.
St Joseph is a series of small hills (not all of which are suitable for vines) with 640 hectares under vines. The size of the region has grown from on 240 hectares in 1972. That is the year that the Appellation Controllée rules changed. The red wine from St Joseph is 100 per cent Syrah. It is a lighter wine than Châteauneuf-du-Pape because of the soil structure, which is sand and gravel in the rocky granite. Some of the white wine is made from Marsanne and Rousanne. There are 25 communes in the region.
The northern Rhone is a steep river valley cutting through the central massif with vines growing on granite soils along the protected western slopes, with a south or south-east aspect. Terracing, because of the slope, and “wig-wams” or “tepees” for vine training are common because of the Mistral wind (some areas cannot be planted). Climate, like Beaujolais, is southern continental with cold winters and shortish summers. Traditional open-vat fermentation with pumping over and wood ageing for two years is normal practice. Soil is principally granite.
The red wine should age for about five years before it consumed. Reds will last 10 years or beyond. The white wines should be consumed when they are young. The best of the St Joseph wines come from the slopes behind Tournon (opposite Crozes-Hermitage) where the steep slopes on the eastern side of the valley come to an end. Overall production is in the range of 100,000 cases with 95 per cent of that being red.
The name St Joseph comes from a hillside near Tournon, although many locals will convincingly argue the name comes from St Joseph himself, who is reported to be the patron Saint of betrayed husbands.
The locals will also dispute exactly when the first grapes were cultivated in Saint Joseph and in this case it is very difficult to determine. In 1309 wine was first sold in Tournon and Mauves, both villages within the original Saint Joseph appellation. Tournon itself is nearly 1,200 years old with the first written mention occurring in 814 AD. Some believe the first wine was made by the local Carmelite monks who cultivated vineyards above Tournon. According to Ėlie Brault, during the reign of Louis the XII (1498-1515) the only wines served at the Court of France were from the three royal vineyards: Beaune and Chenove in Burgundy and the esteemed Clos de Tournon. The wine continued to be a favourite of the royals and it is recorded that King Henry II (1519-59) kept a personal reserve of several barrels that Saint Joseph was sold as far away as Rome. Saint Joseph wines even made the theatre with Victor Hugo Les Misérables where he wrote… there was served a bottle of this good wine of Mauves…but no more bottle was brought out because it was an ‘expensive wine’.
Wine of the week
1999 Saint Joseph “Domaine de Rochevine” Maison Guyot, Alcohol Volume 12.5%, Price approximately £6.90
The Domaine de Rochevine is located on the village of Saint-Desirat. It is made of one, and only one, band of 19 hectares. During the French revolution in 1789 the village of Saint-Desirat was renamed Rochevine (rock producing wine). The vines are planted very narrow on very steep slopes cultivated in terrace reinforced by stone to avoid damages due to erosion.
The Domaine de Rochevine is one of the most beautiful Domaines of Saint Joseph vintage. Ideally situated on steep, terraced hills, it benefits from the best exposure and small yield. The wine is matured for 12 months in old and new barrels. Solid intense crimson robe. Aromas typical of Syrah grape, combining a fruity nose of cherries and raspberries with spiced and fruited palate, tart acidity and light tannins. This versatile wine can enhance the enjoyment of such diverse entrées as a lightly grilled salmon to a juicy grilled steak. You can expect this wine to age gracefully up to five more years.
For more information Le Sommelier Tel: 22 782000
