Masalas Indian
Highly qualified chefs turn out fresh and tasty food to convert one writer
Masalas Indian Restaurant, tucked away beside the Larnaca-Dhekelia Road, has all the trappings of success – a detached building fronted by a line of illuminated palm trees leading through its garden, complete with mini waterfall, to the entrance, which in turn leads to a grand room decorated with colourful ceiling drapes and bedecked with well-laid tables. The mainly circular tables are placed comfortably apart, so it doesn’t feel claustrophobic, allowing you to sit and talk at ease without overhearing the next table’s banter. In fact, the whole place has a kind of hotel-dining-room-quality, with something reminiscent of 1980s d?cor about it and the odd sari thrown in for good measure.
On a Saturday night you would expect a good restaurant to be packed, and it was. Hopeful diners were turned away, so we were glad we had made a reservation. The music was very ‘background’ among the laughter, chat, and hum of diners. All of the plentiful staff were immaculately presented, dressed in black and white, offering a first-class service without being obtrusive. But the proof of the pudding is in the eating.
I opened my brown, leather-clad menu to find a generous selection of starters (£3-£4.50) including Chicken Afsana (pieces of chicken, cooked with mild herbs and spices, served on poori bread), Garlic Mussels, and a vegetarian selection including Onion Pakoras (mildly spiced fritters of onions, lentils and potatoes), Vegetable Samosas, and Soup of the Day. We plumped for the Garlic Mushrooms and the Lamb Tikka. The mushrooms were absolutely divine. They were served on poori bread (which was like a cupped hard pancake) accompanied by lemon, which made the flavour of the mushrooms even more heavenly, and a little cucumber and tomato which seemed rather pointless. The other starter, the Lamb Tikka, was chewy, succulent and spicy. We were also given a selection of four dips at the same time consisting of onions and mango, chilli and mint sauce.
So, to the main courses – you’ve read the book, you’ve seen the film, now to taste the real thing. I chose the medium spicy Chicken Pasanda (boneless chicken in a curry and cashew nut sauce), and my partner went for the hot Showaddy Special, which is the chef’s speciality curry made with chicken tikka, fresh green chillies, capsicum and a touch of fresh cream, both £5.95. The Pasanda was totally delicious with a subtle sweetness, hot on the tongue but not uncomfortably so, and it had a depth of taste, which you can tell has been prepared with passion. My partner’s meal was definitely hot, causing beads of sweat on his brow! Highly recommended to those who love more than a touch of spice. To accompany these we had a Plain Pullao Rice (£1.85), which was fragrant and tasty. My side order of Raitha (yoghurt with cucumber) £1.75, balanced out the spiciness of my meal perfectly. Is this Greek tzatziki, minus the mint? The Keema Nan bread (filled with mince) was soft, thick and moreish. As we scraped the bottom of the Indian-style basins, kept warm over a tea light, we realised that we were loving this meal.
So where does Masalas gets its strength from? The Indian chefs, Ali Sabir and three others, create their distinctive dishes from spices and herbs they prepare themselves. They each have their different specialities, such as curry or tandoori, which is marinated before cooking. Enthusiastic owner Nikos Christophi, has been in the catering industry for 45 years, previously running a restaurant in Stratford upon Avon, and he prides himself on ensuring that each of his chefs are trained to high standards, and this, he says, “is the key to the success of the restaurant”.
A moment of panic overwhelmed as I spotted the sweet trolley being wheeled through the tables. We could only manage to share a Cr?me Caramel between us, and it proved to be the ideal choice. It was soft and fresh and fell apart just like a home-made caramel should. It also came with a generous helping of sauce.
“The only problem is that I’ve never had an Indian meal that I didn’t like!” said my partner. I, however, have never been a huge fan but I enjoyed my meal so much, I consider myself truly converted.
VITAL STATISTICS
SPECIALITIES Chicken Tikka Masala/Madras/Showaddy
SEATING 120
WHERE Larnaca-Dhekelia Road
CONTACT 24 644950
BOOKING Essential
PRICE 3-course dinner for two with wine from £30
