On the wine trail with Jill Campbell Mackay

A bit of history

Not only does the wine museum offer almost all the wines the island produces, but also a fascinating insight into the industry on the island

The village of Erimi, by rights, should now be named as the European Capital of wine. And not least because of 18 pots dug up 72 years ago were last year found to have been used for wine storage around 300BC. This is just one of the many remarkable discoveries that go to making a trip to visit the Cyprus wine museum in Erimi all that more interesting.

It’s been known for a long time that the fruit of the vine has been cultivated here in Cyprus as far back as 400BC and interestingly, both Babylonian and Jerusalem Talmud’s mention the words ‘Ya –in Kafrisin’ which is Hebrew for ‘Cypriot wine’ as a sacrament in their religious rituals.

So, every day, twice a day, Orthodox Jews say these words in their prayers. That level of worldwide brand recognition is something all wine-producing countries would fall over themselves to have.

One can easily see why Erimi was strategically important as a centre for the winemaking business, situated at the crossroads of the major wine routes leading to and from the mountains. It’s also close to the Knights Bridge where the Knights Templars from nearby Kolossi castle would cross. Here again is another reason why Erimi should be so recognised – the medieval Commanderie (Headquarters) of the Hospitaller Knights at Kolossi Castle produced what is now recognised as the worlds oldest, still in commercial production, wine – Commandaria.

Finding the museum is not a problem, either coming from Limassol or Paphos as the village turn off is well sign posted on the outskirts of Limassol. From turning off the motorway it’s only another eight minutes or so following the well positioned CTO signs to the museum. Stepping inside you will meet Bambos Papadopoulos who, on a daily basis, is responsible for introducing visitors to the museum.

I found out why there is such an abundance of Pitharis ( those big, bosom-shaped clay pots) lying around outside houses: because villagers in the wine regions would, upon the birth of a girl in the family, fill a Pithary with sweet wine (commandaria). The pot was then sealed and buried beneath the house, only to be opened on the occasion of the daughter’s wedding, when all the villagers would drink to the health of the happy couple with the still perfect sweet wine. Bambos said it could easily be stored for 150 years and still taste fine.

Another vital piece of information confirmed that I would never have lasted here during the 15th century. Seemingly all women were banned from drinking wine in public in the presence of men, and, to make sure there was no sneaky sipping they were issued with special goblets. These vessels, made of pottery, were pierced about a centimetre from the bottom of the goblet, so, when toasts were made a lady was only permitted to hold the cup to her lips, if she dared knock back the tiny puddle of wine in the goblet it would of course come spilling out from the holes and she would be spattered with drops of wine.

Bambos also said that Champagne vines were first cultivated here in Cyprus and taken over to France between 1283 and 1287. The French also have to be deeply grateful to Cypriots for, at the same time; they presented them with the first makings of decent perfume using the sweet smelling rose bushes sent as gifts to the French court that had once bloomed in the village of Agros.

After the tour of the past in the museum area, visitors then go down to the ground floor area where there is a selection of current wines culled from every single winery in Cyprus. Many of the labels displayed are old favourites, some relatively unknown. When you see all the brands lined up together it underlines the wineries’ failing to create a solid corporate identity for Cyprus’ product.

You can also buy any of the wine on display (their prices are very competitive), while the museum plans to open a small cafe within their courtyard come spring.

In the meantime, we suggest you toddle on back down the road, get on to the motorway again, making for the Pissouri Beach turn off, here you will enjoy a good, decently-priced lunch at the Limanaki Restaurant, that’s just before you go down to the Pissouri Beach Hhotel on your left next to the beach car park.

Cyprus Wine Museum

42 Paphou Street, Erimi, Limassol. Tel: 25 873808 or 25 873809. email: [email protected] Open Mon Sat 9-5pm. £2.50 entrance which includes glass of wine.