The Hess group’s excellent and diverse wines hail from Europe, Australia and North and South America
The first time that I met with Hans Astrom – the vice president of Hess Group – was back in May in the island of Rhodes.
The Oak Tree Cellar is the sole importer of Hess wines on the island and Hans Astrom had been invited to the island for the International Sommelier competition in which the Hess Group was offering €10,000 for the best essay on Shiraz. It gave me a chance to discover the world and wines of Donald Hess.
The Hess family of Switzerland lives in Berne. From the geographic heart of Europe and surrounded by the finest vineyards of France, Italy, Spain and Germany, Donald Hess developed a unique appreciation for wines. As part of his own personal commitment to supporting the diversity of premium wine growing regions, Donald sought out and personally developed both the Hess Collection (Napa Valley, California) and Colom? (Salta Province, Argentina) wineries. Complementing Donald’s vision of excellence and diversity in fine wines are the wines of Peter Lehmann (Barossa Australia) and Glen Carlou (Paarl, South Africa)
This development started like this. Donald Hess inherited his Swiss family company in the 1960s at the age of 20 and immediately set about converting it from beer to a mineral water business, thanks to an alpine spring he located. This was marketed as the Swiss Valser Wasser, and the company pioneered direct home deliveries. He also had interests in hotels but, as with so many others, it was a trip to the Napa Valley that inspired him to try his hand as a vignerons.
By 1978 he had bought his first Napa Valley vineyard and eventually acquired the old Christian Brothers property on Mount Veeder which is now the Hess Collection winery housing not just a 600,000 case wine operation but part of his collection of modern art.
Donald Hess is far from a standard-issue businessman. He has somehow managed to have his own energetic brand of fun – much more holistic than golf and sailboats – during his 45 years at the helm. He is interested in start ups and running things.
The promise of hands-off ownership must have appealed to the Lehmanns in Australia. Hess leaves them alone to create their wines, and this sounds magic.
Lately he has been busy dragging the 96,000-acre estate into the 21st century to have much time to meddle with the business plans of what is already a thriving Australian wine company. And the latest start up has vineyards at 2,200 m to 3000 altitude, at the end of the world. In Hess own words “the land is the most important thing; it’s the foundation of the house.”
We have tasted four wines, one from each winery.
2007 Glen Carlou Tortoise Hill, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Paarl, South Africa, Alcohol Volume 13%
An interesting blend that sees a core of fresh and zippy Sauvignon gain wait and extra body with some barrel fermented Chardonnay and a splash of Viognier. It’s a clear light yellow dry white. Banana and lychee, citrus zest, melon and a mix of tropical fruit are obvious on the nose. On the palate there is lemon drops, and freshly cut grass, then tropical and lychee followed by mango on the finish. Refreshing as it is with some crispy acidity I would have much preferred it at 7° as an aperitif and also with lemon chicken or chicken and mushroom vol-au-vents.
2005 Hess Collection Chardonnay, Su’skol Vineyard, Napa Valley, California, Alcohol Volume 14.5%
This is a bright yellow wine with evidence of cantaloupe, pineapple and guava followed by pear with a pink grapefruit finish. The mouth-feel, as expected, is creamy with bright acidity and the palate is well-balanced in the mid-palate. The 30 per cent French oak gives a hint of vanilla in the background. Served at 9°C with grilled swordfish, but add some roast red peppers, or coleslaw with raisins, apple slaw or my favourite red pepper and mango salsa. You see it is the sweet-with-sweet principle.
2005 Colom? Estate, Valle? Calchaqui, Malbec 66%/Cabernet Sauvignon 20%/ Tannat 14%, Salta, Argentina
This wine succeeds brilliantly in combining the intensity and directness of the high-altitude flavours with modern accessibility. And remember it comes from the world’s highest vineyards. No wonder I had high expectations. Brilliant, deep garnet red colour, the nose is intense and complex with aromas of black fruits – black berry and cherry with notes of clove, nutmeg black pepper. The palate shows flavours of black cherry, rich and full bodied, and it has smooth ripe tannins and a long finish. Drinkable now at 17°C with Argentine beef. Naturally!
2004 Peter Lehmann, Future Shiraz, Barossa Valley, Australia, Alcohol Volume 14.5%
The Barossa is famous as the home of great Shiraz. And this is no exception. Bright ruby red with vibrant garnet rim, lashings of prunes and dark berries, chocolate, eucalyptus and mixed spice. There is fruit in depth on the palate, superb structure with firm tannins and beautifully integrated nose. Excellent with lamb shanks, flavoured casseroles and mature cheddar at 17°C. It is a joy to drink now. This is recommended for the fans of Australian Shiraz.
