The warm hues of Cyprus reds

A selection of wines for winter meals

2005 Merlot Tsiakkas Winery, Lemesos Regional, Pelendri, Alcohol Volume 14%
A wine made by the Merlot varietal is the latest venture from Costa Tsiakkas, the ex-banker from Pelendri. The wine is matured in new French oak for six months. Medium, dark ruby; vegetal, alcohol, green and dusty, it is herbal yet floral, with intense plum and white cherry fruit followed by spice cinnamon with hints of roasted coffee. It takes ten to twenty minutes to open up. With a pleasant sweet entry it has some ripe fruit, charcoal and tar flavours, a medium body, with astringent firm tannins. When first tested earlier this year it was not balanced. Glad to see the improvement. This wine is shy at first but it opens up solely to reveal its fruit. Served at 16? to 18?C it will pair well with big red meats dishes or smoky cheese.

2004 Vardalis Maratheftiko, Lemesos Regional. Kilani, Alcohol Volume 13%
It’s the first feature of Vardalis wines on this page. Three men own the winery up in Kilani village. Deep red in colour, this was the silver medal winner at the first Cyprus wine competition. A fresh cherry, plum and pepper predominate on the nose with underlying orange tinge and faint tobacco notes and anise along with tomato paste. Medium to full, the wine has firm tannins, excellent carry of flavours on the palate, framed by vanilla oak and a lingering finish with lots of complex pepper and big Maratheftiko fruit. Certainly one of best Maratheftiko grape wines in the market presented with an attractive label, in a Burgundy-shaped bottle.

2003 Vardalis Cabernet Sauvignon, Lemesos Regional, Kilani, Alcohol Volume 13%
Dark ruby, warm berry, it has a very distinct Cabernet aroma with plum and cassis, cedar, cinnamon, mint, olive oil and dill. Medium body with sweet red fruit flavours, cherry in particular, with well integrated toasty oak and vanilla. It is supple and mellow with a silky texture, slightly rich but with a good mouthfeel. The tannins are light to moderate, long cherry finish. Best served at 18?C this oak-aged wine is ready to drink now but can age for a couple more years. Serve with flavourful and hearty red meat, greatly enjoyed with a veal cutlet. Or, you could also try it with Sunday’s roast beef, pan-fried steaks, roast goose or pheasant and semi-soft herb cheese.

2003 Shoufas Winery Maratheftiko, Paphos Regional, Kilinia Village, Alcohol Volume 12.5%
Dark, rich ruby, some purple too, the nose has a sweet blueberry, black cherry and some cassis and alcohol. It is typical Maratheftiko on the palate with some cinnamon and mint blended with berry jam. This medium body wine still has some young, untamed tannins more tart than astringent and it is still grapey with medium finish. Tried it with roast duck and it was a good match, also try this wine with red meats on charcoal at 17?C

2005 Fikardos Winery, Marathefiko, Pafos Regional, Alcohol Volume 12.5%
This Maratheftiko is matured in oak barrels. It is clear, deep garnet ruby, sweet and still young. On the nose we have aromas of ripe berries, plums, raisin, violet, leather, meat, spice and bay leaf. On the palate, smooth, slightly rich, medium bodied, with firm meaty, chewy, soft tannins. Blackberry flavours come out in the medium long finish, which is also slightly green, bitter and astringent. Served at 17?C with pasta sausage and mustard, grilled leg of lamb with rosemary, or breaded pork chops.