Time for Argentinean wine to be taken more seriously
I will never know what prompted an English engineer to become one of the pioneers of Argentine viticulture. Raised in his native land, Sir Edmund James Palmer Norton graduated as an engineer and soon his services were requested by Argentina to build the railway connecting Mendoza and Chile. Initially, his task was designing railway bridges; his entrepreneurial spirit drove him to search for other opportunities. Thus, in 1985 he founded the very first winery in the area, located to the south of the Mendoza River in the district of Perdriel in the department of Luj?n de Cuyo. Later he imported vines from France and devoted himself to his newfound love of viticulture. Sir Edmund Norton adopted Argentina’s Mendoza province as his homeland, married Juana Su?rez and had several children, some of whom continued the family business. It is a fitting testament to his genius and personality that he is warmly remembered even now as a gentleman and for his devotion to making his wines the best they could be. In 1989, the winery was bought by the Austrian entrepreneur Gernot Langes Swarovski.
Which is why it was Austrians Michael M?ller and Nicole Rabe who recently visited Cyprus, following La Maison du Vin invitation, and introduced us to the world of Bodega Norton at the Almyra Hotel. Unfortunately, it appears the wine has fallen victim to the most frustrating of wine malaises – pigeonholing. It is a similar case with Cyprus: this weakness of the average wine drinker lies in stark contrast to the numerous, forward-thinking, pro-active contributions our country generally is beginning to make to the world of wine. By struggling to see beyond its market breaking grape variety – in Argentina’s case, Malbec – we pigeonhole a New World country into a one-grape state. New Zealand and Sauvignon Blanc; Chile and Merlot; Australia and Shiraz – they have all suffered this treatment. However, the difference between these countries and Argentina is that they have already succeeded in getting people to understand they are capable of producing a lot more than the grape that made the country famous.
With such a complicated history, Argentina’s route to producing great wines has been a protracted trial-and-error journey. This country is brimming with talent, potential and choice, Argentina’s ascension to the world stage of quality wine production has undoubtedly been down to Malbec. It seems that too few people appreciate what Argentina has to offer these days. Our tasting proved that Argentina can produce some world class wines and Argentina now deserves to be known for far more than Malbec.
Wines of the week
2006 Sauvignon Blanc, Luj?n de Cuyo, Mendoza, Alcohol Volume 13.5%
This wine has a bright, pale yellow colour typical of Sauvignon Blanc. Nose of citrus, pink grapefruit, some tropical fruit, as in pineapple, followed by essences of herbs. On the palate, it is still fresh, with a light to medium body and balanced in acidity. Use it with wood-grilled chili or stuffed shrimps, at 7?C.
2006 Torront?s, Luj?n de Cuyo, Mendoza, Alcohol Volume 13.8%
Interesting grape Torront?s, from the local white grape variety. Exotic, feminine and musky, rich and honeyed, white peaches and flowers such as roses and jasmine yet with an abundance of fresh citrus fruit, it manages the tricky task of being both full in body and refreshing. Interesting greenish yellow colour with golden hints, this grape is reminiscent of Muscat. Excellent with pan-fried chicken and honey mustard sauce, deep fried beignets with feta and honey, or Almyra’s prawn souvlaki with lavender and saffron sauce.
2005 Merlot, Luj?n de Cuyo, Mendoza, Alcohol Volume 13.5%
A ruby red colour, young, party wine full of intense cherry and raspberry fruit, hints of violets and eucalyptus, light to medium body, fruity, smooth tannins, ideal for white meat and fish, at 16?C.
2005 Malbec, Luj?n de Cuyo, Mendoza, Alcohol Volume 13.5 %
Has more heart with the typical deep red colour and violet hints, sweet and spicy aromas, violet, plum and a medium body, smooth tannins, meaty and leathery finish at 17?C. Ideal for lamb or pork chops and hearty cassoulets.
2004 Malbec Reserve
A deep red Malbec with violet hints, rich and supple, pure sweet fruit on the nose, brimming with berry and blackcurrant fruit, spicy aromas reminiscent of black pepper. On the palate, it has harmonious tannins, is concentrated, intense, vivid and a nice dark spicy fruit with good acidity, a full-bodied wine with a complex, almost meaty, leathery finish. Excellent match to the Argentinean beef medallion at 17?C.
2003 Privada Estate Reserve
Intense, deep red ruby colour, this blend of Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon has concentrated ripe dark fruit and liquorice aromas with marvelous spicy richness. On the palate, full round tannins balanced with great fruit concentration, faint tobacco and nautical tar characters, lingering intense at the aftertaste. Excellent!!
