An island of contrasts
Far from being ‘just another Greek island’, Crete has plenty to offer and an identity all of its own
“Dramatic mountains and sparkling seas, bustling cities and secluded olive groves, ancient ruins and sleek resorts – Crete is an island of irresistible contrasts,” says The Lonely Planet as I flick through its pages on the plane. To be honest, I’m already beginning to wonder why I never made the short journey to Crete long ago.
Only a stone’s throw from Cyprus, the legendary birthplace of Zeus is the largest of the Greek islands. With a long and colourful history, it is famed as the centre of Minoan civilization, the oldest in Europe, and boasts a rich culture steeped in history. With Nikos Kazantzakis as Crete’s prodigal son, many will remember the island from the film Zorba the Greek, staring Antony Quin.
Before I’d even packed my suitcase, I imagined Crete to be all about sun and sea, probably in the same way that most tourists think about Cyprus before they arrive. I knew that I’d be staying at the five-star Panorama Hotel, courtesy of Leptos Estates, and I expected to see a few nice beaches – because I was fixed on the idea that it was a popular tourist destination, I didn’t imagine there would be anything very traditional or unspoilt about this place. Truth is, the whole experience came as quite a surprise.
“It’s very similar to Cyprus,” one person tells me before we land. “It’s similar but much greener,” said another. It was at this point that a white haired, moustached man who was sitting a few seats away from me reached over and said that Crete is like everywhere and nowhere else at the same time. He must have been a local, but there was no chance to ask more, he just wasn’t interested in saying anything else as he immediately turned to look the other way. What exactly did he mean? As the plane touched down, voices blurred around me and I started drawing my own conclusions.
The airport of Chania, in the western prefecture of the island, is situated in a basin surrounded by rugged green mountains touching crystal blue waters. “Welcome to paradise,” one man says as he greets another with a strong embrace.
While Iraklion is the capital of the island, Chania should definitely be top of any holidaymaker’s list. As the country’s most evocative city, you can spend hours walking round the puzzle of narrow lanes, all leading down to the central harbour dotted with restored Venetian houses along a waterfront promenade. Some of these houses have been converted into caf?s, others into restaurants, trendy bars and boutique hotels. Some places remind of the tasteless tourist hot spots that you can find in Ayia Napa or Protaras, other venues however scream class and ambiance. Just move away from the centre towards the back streets and you can also find great waterfront taverns where fresh fish of the day is dished up as the sun goes down.
Leaving the hustle and bustle of the town lanes behind and taking a trip up to the mountains, you’ll experience natural beauty at its best. While life seems to potter on as it did years ago, you can expect to stop at least a couple of times to let a goat herd cross the road. Oh, it’s also worth mentioning that it may very well not be the goats that will be the biggest hindrance to your journey. Suffice to say that the roads are not really up to scratch and the drivers make all of us here in Cyprus look like angels. But hey, it’s a Greek island, it’s extremely relaxed, and it goes without saying that drivers will make up their own rules. As for the road signs, you’ll be lucky to find one without at least half a dozen bullet holes through it as hunters leave their mark. Prepare for the wild west of the Cretan outback and just enjoy the ride.
We took a scenic route towards the village of Theriso with the spectacular drive following a running stream through a green haven that you wouldn’t really expect to find mid summer in the Mediterranean. As you follow winding roads through the rugged mountain terrain, you see some spectacular views and can eat at some of the finest taverns offering home cooked food like you’ve only ever dreamt of. The further you move away from the towns, the more likely that the food you get will be of higher quality, all made with fresh local produce.
We stopped at a restaurant owned by a charming village couple who seemed intent on making sure that we had the dining experience of a lifetime. Not only did they treat us like we were part of the family as they sat down with us while we all had lunch together, but they made sure that we tried just about every Cretan speciality that has ever existed with delicious salads, wild greens, hot pastries filled with cheese, tender meat dishes and their own special version of pilafi rice.
And because no meal is complete without a couple of shots of Tsikoudia, the couple insisted on filling and re-filling our glasses with the drink that locals swear by because of its medicinal properties. Don’t even try and say no to any offers at the dinner table – just join in and enjoy doing things the Cretan way. Similar to the Cypriot Zivania and Greek Raki, Tsikoudia is the most popular and widely loved alcoholic drink in Crete and while locals may down the stuff like there’s no tomorrow, there have been stories where foreigners have had to stay the night in the village tavern as they just can’t make the journey back down. Medicinal properties or not, you certainly don’t want to be skipping down the mountainside.
After the excellent experience in nature, it came as no surprise that Cretans are renowned for living very long lives, with various surveys indicating that their diet is one of the healthiest in the world because of the emphasis on traditional food with plenty of wild greens, fruits, vegetables and olive oil. While locals spend the summer months working in the various towns across the island, in the colder winter months, when tourism is slow, they head to the villages in the mountains and help their families with the autumn olive harvest. Almost every family in Crete produces its own virgin olive oil, with the local produce rated among the world’s best.
Chatting away to the locals, they seem to believe that it’s not just the food they eat that leads to longevity. Rather, it’s all down to their positive outlook and remarkable passion for life. And it’s worth mentioning that Cretans are so laid back that they often have little concept of time or stressing about anything much. “Life is to be enjoyed and the idea of today, tomorrow or the day after is not important,” one local named George tells me, “it’s the essence of life that we cherish.” I’d often heard that Cretans are extremely proud of their heritage, but experiencing it firsthand was fascinating. With their distinctive traditions and specific philosophies on life, they don’t like to be placed in the category of being ‘Greek’. These people are Cretan through and through and are happy to share their love with whomever steps foot on their land.
Just one final word of warning – don’t ever tell a Cretan that there is anywhere more beautiful in the world. Don’t even suggest that anything could possibly compare.
You’ll only be faced with a slightly bewildered stare before they go weak at the knees and comfortably position themselves on the nearest chair to explain why Crete is something like a sparkling gem that outshines any other foreign land. For an island that boasts such great diversity and whose inhabitants seem to have the meaning of life down to a tea, can you really blame them for having such strong feelings for their homeland?
Remembering the words of the moustached man on the plane, I now realise exactly what he meant – on the surface Crete can appear to be just like most other islands or Mediterranean countries. Dig a little deeper however, and sit back to hear the stories of eve
n just a few locals, and Crete becomes a place like no other.
If you want to plan a holiday to Crete or a stay in the five-star Panorama Hotel in Chania, contact Leda Travel, Tel: 26 880440
