Meandering in the hills
The village of Pano Lefkara is well known for its lace production. The way there can be varied, but it is always pretty
To be honest, some day trips take on a life of their own – you plan to go to one place but because of the sheer variety of things to do and places to see en route, you find yourself meandering off to check out a church on a hill, or divert to make a drive through a village en route. This trip to Lefkara turned out to be such an experience.
Starting from the Ayia Phyla roundabout in Limassol, take the turn for Spitali, Gerasa, Zoopigi. This is a reasonably good road, albeit full of twists and turns, climbing ever higher into Commandaria making territory, until finally arriving in Kalo Chorio. Make sure you park so you can enjoy a short walk through this rather pretty place before making the decision to visit one of the many churches that seem to circle the area.
First choice would be to detour off onto a clearly marked side road that, after 4km, ends at Ayios Mamas church in Louvaras. It’s tiny but exquisitely painted with frescoes dating back to 1495, prominent is a painted panel dedicated to Saint Mamas.
He is cradling a lamb as he rides a lion. Legend has it that Mamas, who was a devout hermit, refused to pay his taxes because he was a man who had zero income. The governor ordered his arrest but as he was being taken to prison, a lion leapt out from behind a tree onto a lamb that had been grazing in a field. Mamas commanded the lion to stop the attack; he then picked up the lamb and mounted the lion. The sight of the hermit riding into town astride a lion sufficiently impressed the authorities that he was then exempt from paying any taxes. The church may, as a result, be a bit full when you visit as this saint has always enjoyed a somewhat fervent worship as the patron saint of tax dodgers.
Returning on the route taken to the church, follow signs to Arakapas and Eptagoneia – a very twisty road, which makes for slow, steady driving skills but has great views of vine-covered slopes, fertile, fruit tree filled valleys, almond trees and houses sporting rows of old jerry cans bursting with a profusion of sweet-scented geraniums and wild roses. Plus everywhere is the clean, fresh aroma generated by hundreds of pine trees.
Along the route, red-tile-roofed homes cling limpet-like to the mountain face, but you’re unlikely to be bothered by other vehicles as this is not a region populated by Z cars or lumbering big tour buses.
Our next religious call is 7km from Pano Lefkara and is made in the village of Vavla, home to one of the few convents still functioning in Cyprus. Ayiou Mina is only open to the public from May 1 until September 30 and then only between the hours of 12:30 to 3pm. Fourteen nuns reside in a rather lovely Byzantine Gothic confection first founded by Dominicans during the 15th century. The nuns are a really friendly bunch of women and are very willing to sit and chat about the history of their home, enthusiastically describing how they paint icons, make delicious honey, almond paste, marmalade and special herbs, all of which are for sale in the small shop.
You can also load up on special teas to cure gout, herpes, frozen shoulder and any other possible digestive problems.
The only thing to remember is ladies are not allowed into the church wearing trousers or shorts so best bring a skirt with you to really enjoy this quite beautiful, peaceful and decidedly non touristy place.
Kato Dhrys is the next stop, where you can visit the local museum, another interesting experience for those used to a more sophisticated presentation of one’s cultural heritage. The other interesting element is the architecture of the village: long, tall, well-balanced houses boasting frontages with Ionic and Doric columns and wrought iron balconies making for a classical Greek feel to the homes.
Nearing Pano Lefkara, you are now traveling at 700m above sea level on the fringes of the Troodos. It’s best when approaching the town to follow the second signpost as the first will have you walking a good distance from the parking place. Known all over the island as a lace-making centre, you can indulge in a bit of retail therapy but watch out as some of the ‘traditional’ linen has Made in China or Made in Ireland labels attached.
Pano Lefkara is still a very nice place despite the heavy sell laid on to sample the local wares; lovely arches abound making the small streets seem like a maze of tunnels. Also there’s an abundance of impressive door frames and balconies.
There’s a small folk art museum plus a rather brave venture which has been launched in the form of a local wax museum.
Kato Lefkara is the lower neighbour and here the star of the show is the 12th century church of Archangelos, set in a field close to the village car park. Inside some impressive painted images have survived, decorating the apse of the church. It’s not as impressive overall as some of the painted churches of the high Troodos, but it’s the subject matter that may fascinate, which includes the image of the ‘holy handkerchief’ over the south door of the church.
From Pano Lefkara it’s straight down onto the motorway. We planned to turn off at Zigi for lunch – this small, seaside village is well known for its fish tavernas – but sadly I cannot recommend eating at the Captain’s Table, which, to put it mildly, was an unmitigating disaster.
This trip can be easily traveled in a day, starting from the Limassol turn off, you can easily be back to Paphos (including time for lunch) by 4:30pm.
