Brainwaves
Some bright ideas on what to drink with offal
It pays to be exceedingly tactful about offal. Many nationalities, Americans in particular, do not take kindly to it but can sometimes enjoy a deftly prepared dish if no one lectures them on the details. I well remember a wonderful birthday feast prepared for me in a fine London restaurant with guests of all nationalities. The first tantalising course was set before us: tiny fried calf’s brains sitting on a salad, at which point I looked anxiously at my friends from New England and Chicago. But I need not have worried – everything disappeared, with accompanying cries of praise. I think the Italians at the table were the only people to realise exactly what they were eating, but the Italians have always been masters at this dish – just like us Cypriots. Incidentally, we drank Chablis.
I often use sherry when cooking liver or kidneys, so it seems a good idea to enjoy a glass while waiting to eat – most offal dishes are very quick to prepare and are best served straight from the pan. Try a classic sherry like Sandeman and, in particular, a Dry Old Palo Cortado with its high-toned, smoky-nutty smell and lovely acidity. A friend once suggested a seductive Dry Old Oloroso with a warmer smell and a velvety richness. Sherry can be used both in saut?ed kidney and mushroom dishes and in a lamb’s liver, apple and yoghurt concoction.
Fairly forceful red wines go best with these imposing tastes. A reserve Cyprus Cabernet Sauvignon with a real berry and gums liquid, coating the mouth in a friendly way – not many Cabernets in Cyprus do that – and meeting the yoghurt head-on.
Pungent Cabernet Sauvignons that work very well are Californians that give a mouthful of tarry raspberries and spicy finish. Try not to serve the overpowering 14% alcohol ones. Of course, liver and bacon is a delicious dish, with lots of garlic, but grill the bacon crisp. This was a favourite of the head chef at my previous hotel and I remember it tasted good with violetty St Chinian (South France), but a sturdy Tavel Rose (Lirac) would do just fine.
The Cypriot way of cooking offal leans heavily on onions. I could not imagine anything more satisfying than Maratheftiko, that is if you want the sublime experience of deep plums and liquorice. Calves’ liver with sage must be handled more gently. In fact, the slightly more “woolly” texture of calf liver, as opposed to lamb and its subtle taste, lends itself best to German wine. You need to keep fruity acidity of a really top estate wine if possible (Nahe, the tributary of the Rhine which perhaps makes the most flowery of the German wines. I have tried this once with Riesling Sp?tlese – elegant fruit and balanced sweetness that slips down with saut?ed calves’ liver and some creamy pasta, tagliatelle if I am not mistaken).
Oxtail is classified as offal but a decent dish of braised oxtail needs very lengthy, slow cooking, becoming even more delicious if it is reheated the next day. It should have masses of herb and, for that reason, I suggest pairing it with a thick, tarry and weighty Greek wine with noticeable tannin (Ch?teau Carras). As for kidneys cooked with my favourite sauce ? la moutarde with a sharp bite of Dijon and the liberal dose of Cognac, combat with a vibrant Beaujolais cru – a solid Morgon.
Finally, steak and kidney pudding is surely one of the world’s most satisfying dishes. But you need lashings of kidneys to give its inimitable flavour. Bordeaux – simply a fin Bourgeois claret is the answer.
And if kidneys are suitable eating with pre-dinner drinks as a lovely “tapas” in tartlets try a dry Torres Vi?a de Sol.
Wine of the week
2003 Shoufas Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pafos Region, Kilinia Village, Alcohol Volume 12.5%
Deep garnet colour with some violet hints. This dry red from Shoufas is a blend of the classic Bordeaux combination, imposing minty cassis and some mineral aromas. Clean, fresh fruit flavour and black pepper – cherries, blackcurrant – over lemon-tart acidity and firm but accessible tannins. Medium to full-bodied, balanced, seemingly age-worthy but I believe it should be drunk now. Served at 18?C with grilled red meat served with peppery sauce, or beef stew, sharp cheddar cheese, liver and game.
