Restaurant needs time to grow into new location
Milagro
The only time that I have encountered this word was when it was attached to the “bean field massacre” but that’s another story. Milagro is the reincarnation of the old Milano, which stood at a junction on Grivas Digenis.
Now located in splendid new premises further up Grivas Digenis, opposite Ariston bakery, with underground parking attached, it boasts an open Italianate ambience rarely encountered outside Piedmonte. Indeed my companion, who has an Italian mother, reminded me that the interior was very much like the first Agip restaurant we visited in Aosta many years ago; not exactly cavernous, but not intimate either. The whole atmosphere is one of openness, the windows must be six metres high and give an untrammeled view of the constant convoy that is a feature of Grivas Digenis, yet the premises are so well insulated, there is no sound.
Dining is on two levels, and there is an opportunity to sit outside if one chooses; we did not. Arriving a little after 8:30pm we had the whole restaurant to ourselves which leaves one with the unsettled feeling that either you will receive their undivided attention, or you are a damn nuisance. The companion ordered up two ouzos and two menus. There are 127 dishes offered, which includes the usual burgers, pizzas, pastas and sandwiches, but has an interesting line in soups; fish, beef and minestrone among others. The starters have a bold Mediterranean slant; Provencal, Bourgignon, Diavilo etc., ‘let us venture there’, said the companion. Escargots Bourgignon for her, and Prawns Provencal for me, two regions of France that never disappoint; well never before. The first dish is merely snails in garlic butter, the preparation requires shallots, garlic and parsley finely chopped and mixed with butter. There is supposed to be a little marinating, but one mustn’t quibble, after all, it is Thursday night in Nicosia. The preparation is simple, but an absolute requirement of this dish is snail shells, for they are the receptacles that contain the magic sauce. Enter, one dish of dark indeterminate organisms, sans shallots and parsley, swimming in an inch of melted butter; what would they make of that in Bourgogne ? Let us pass to Provence where many a prawn has been consumed in style, but none like these, they would not pass muster as shrimps, and I mean that in the English Sunday tea variety. These miniscule crustaceans covered in ‘hot sauce’ were drowning in a bed of unstrained plain rice.
From now on the meal becomes more exciting; to accompany the starters, and pass time awaiting the main dishes we ordered what appeared to be a very original salad; ‘Vasiliki Salata’, comprising gigantes (giant beans), cold new potatoes and tuna with a vinaigrette dressing. It was delicious, but where was the tuna? The waiter appeared, ‘we have a new chef, he must have forgotten, shall I bring you some?’. For main I selected Paella, always worth a try, and the companion, she of the Italian mother, Scaloppine Veneziana, that’s what it states on the menu.
Enter the main courses: Paella, that Spanish dish so redolent of Barcelona harbour and the anchovy coast; before selecting I questioned the loyal waiter, ‘does it contain all the essential ingredients?’ He replied in the affirmative. The companion expressed a little concern as she had not instructed the kitchen on the preparedness of her steak. ‘It is always the same’ quoth the LW.
The Paella, served in the shape of an inverted soup-plate, was destined to disappoint. Search as I may, no trace of crustaceae or bi-valve was revealed, only chicken and some pieces of squid. So how went the ‘Scaloppine’, with its fresh cream, peppers and mushroom sauce? Not much better really; the sauce was so over salted it was inedible, even my ruined palate couldn’t cope. And beneath it lurked the most over-grilled ‘scaloppine’ this side of a crematorium. We returned them to the new man in the kitchen and the LW brought along the sweet menu which boasts four entries; cake, and three types of crepes; ‘with walnut and honey’, said the companion. They arrived uncooked and cold. “The honey was nice’, she said. I had a coffee.
The old Milano restaurant was in existence for years and there is a great deal of experience and good will to tap into; however, there is a serious problem in the kitchen. If there are staffing problems, then the charming lady must sort them out. The front of house is excellent, what a pity about the rest.
My belief is that this was a one off awful night, and that the Milagro should be given another visit, perhaps, when ‘new man’ is a little more mature. The restaurant is now offering 15% discount on all dishes.
Vital Statistics
SPECIALITY Pastas
WHERE Griva Digeni, 46
PRICE About £50 for three courses (for two) plus wine
SEATING 150 plus
BOOKING Not required, yet
