A wine that appeals to the emotions
Amarone Della Valpolicella
It is mid-January and there has been little sign of rain. However, low temperatures in the evening remind us that we have reached the heart of the winter season. And, as they used to say in Cyprus, red wines are best under these temperatures, red wines that evoke emotional reactions. There are very few wines that evoke as many emotional reactions as the Italian Amarone.
Amarone is a blend of three grapes –Corvina, Molinara and Rondinella – and is made in Veneto, the same area of northeastern Italy that produces Valpolicella. Corvina gives the aroma and richness to the wine, Rondinella gives colour and tannin and Molinara rounds it, giving structure and high alcohol content. What makes Amarone unusual is that after the harvest the grapes are placed on mats or wooden cases and set in warm rooms to dry for five or six months in ventilated “fruttai” until they are converted to ultra sweet raisins. Sometimes the grapes are even attacked by botrytis, the noble mould from which the world’s great sweet wines are made. Despite that, once made into wine, those hyper-sweet grapes yield a wine that by its very character has a distinctly bitter taste with porty overtones. Bitterness is the most controversial of all the basic tastes, in some recalling that atavistic reaction of primitive man who associated the taste with poison, in others calling to mind the more unpleasant moments of childhood. To enjoy bitterness, a developed taste indeed, one must overcome the basic pleasures granted by sweetness and Amarone, the very meaning of which in Italian is the “big bitter,” is anything but sweet.
Despite, or perhaps because of, its bitterness and high alcoholic content (up to 17%), Amarone has a devoted following, the best of these wines cellaring for 10 to 15 years, or even more. Sadly, because even the wine world has to bow to the god of consumerism, increasingly ‘modern’ Amarone wines are now being made. Although these wines are less bitter, less full bodied and have less of the oxidized flavours that many say give Amarone its great charms, they appeal to a broader base of wine drinkers. Unfortunately, some of these wines are little more than fancified and expensive versions of Valpolicella.
Wines of the week
2000 Campagnola Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, Alcohol Volume 15%
Campagnola was established in 1907 by Giuseppe Campagnola and this Venetian giant today turns out more than three million bottles per annum. Now owned by the grandson and namesake of the founder, Giuseppe, the business focuses on the wines of the region, with many of the local IGT, DOC or DOCG regions represented in the range. They also produce wines from as far afield as Sicily, Abruzzi and Puglia.
Quality is on the increase, although daily quaffing wines are the mainstay of the business. As one might expect, the local wines are the strongest, led perhaps by their cru Amarone della Valpolicella Classico and their straight Amarone – the one tested. The wine has a deeply coloured, opaque, garnet black hue. Initially closed, the characterful nose takes some time to open up. When it does it offers aromas of tar, rose-petals, roast plum and blackberry fruits as a result of the time spent in Slovenian oak casks. Rich and warm with a velvety texture and lovely acidity with supple tannins, great length and almond aftertaste.
2001 Ca’Montini Amarone Classico della Valpolicella, Alcohol Volume 15%
Established in the early 1700s, the Pizzolo family’s Ca’Montini winery is located in Marano di Valpolicella (Verona), in the heart of Amarone Classico production area. Ca’Montini works closely with local wine makers to find the best vineyards and technology (traditional in its approach and modern in its efficiency). Four to five months after the Amarone Classico’s grapes are dry comes a soft pressing and long cold fermentation followed by slow transformation into alcohol that lasts up to 45 days, resulting to a sweet and fruity wine. It needs two more years in large barrels to transform all the residual sugar into 15 to 16% alcohol and it is then refined in oak barrels for 12 more months. This is a full-bodied Amarone with an intense, garnet red colour. Strong flavours and aromas of prunes, berry compote and leather come together nicely with those of bittersweet, dark chocolate and pine wood to produce a wine that lingers very nicely on the palate.
Both of these wines can be drunk now or kept for at least five more years. Served at 18°C, I have tried them with a mature Parmigiano cheese, and they go well with foods with strong flavours, particularly stews. But because of the richness, they also go well with salads and antipasti. Best though is to try one with light game such as wild boar, venison or roast pork, because despite its rich fruity flavour it has the right qualities to cut through and clean the taste of game.
Imported by La Vinotheque
