PR food with little substance
Restaurant review by Jill Campbell Mackay.
Don’t you just love it when you sit down in a restaurant and are presented with a lovely menu that extols the chef’s talents and the restaurant’s d?cor?
Chillingtons has such a menu. And it is a seriously, lovely menu, well-thought out, showing an agreeable balance of dishes with a few adventurous twists and turns here and there. Reading it, you are seduced into believing that loads of luscious goodies are waiting in the wings.
Sadly, it all turned out to be a bit of a front, an experience akin to going into a car showroom to order a top of the range Mercedes, only to discover the minute the key goes into the ignition the vehicle is found to be minus its engine. That just about sums up our dining experience at Chillingtons.
Right from the off, I knew we were in delusional territory. The starters spectacularly failed to halt the feeling of food malaise. My tempura fish selection was encased in a batter the consistency of which would have done sterling duty in a 1950s style Glasgow fish and chip shop. Tempura batter should act only as a gentle web with which to embrace delicate seafood.
My two dining companions opted for Smoked salmon and an aubergine, mozzarella dish, the latter did indeed live up to the menu description, but alas the salmon did not. It was too salty and had none of the expected silkiness or complexity of flavours one would expect from a premium Scottish smoker.
But, it was the main courses that disappointed the most. My broiled sea bass with Mediterranean herbs and fine ratoutille with olive tapenda (11.50) was just too oily. The ratatouille was equally disappointing.
Pan-roasted Cod lying atop an asparagus risotto and forest mushroom foam (11.50) and a Rib-eye steak (14.50) were the two other mains ordered by my companions.
My friend’s cod was presented perfectly cooked, but the risotto was not the expected classic light and creamy delight. It was more of a crunchy challenge and the mushroom ‘foam’ did no favours to the overall balance of the dish. And as for the steak, this 700 gram specimen came with a ribbon of membrane, zero marbling and had little flavour.
On to the last course, a platter of mixed cheese, ordered specifically to compliment the remains of our excellent locally made Shiraz from master winemaker Vlassidis.
The cheese arrived with dates, walnuts, and pistachios, but the cheese portions were tiny and not particularly flavoursome.
The waiting staff were very nice, polite young men and women who efficiently brought and took away the dishes, but not once did they inquire why most of our food had been abandoned.
What I find baffling is the high level of care and cost that has gone into making this venue. I do hope Chillingtons manage to find a quality chef worthy of its menu. It’s one that’s well worth keeping, but sadly, at present, it is one full of empty promises.
Speciality- Fine Dining
Where. Main Coral bay Road at St Georges Hotel Traffic lights junction
Contact Telephone 26 911480
[email protected]
Price. 20 -25euros per head
