Alonia Tavern Restaurant
Where the tables groan with food
It’s been a while since I’ve indulged in a traditional Greek-Cypriot meze, so last Saturday night we booked a table at Alonia Tavern, situated in the heart of Livadia on the outskirts of Larnaca.
The village, once full of rickety old houses, has been mostly swallowed up by the sprawling development of Larnaca. Nevertheless, at Aliona I expected tradition, and this is what was waiting for us in this recently opened restaurant, owned by the same people that used to run Ta Kalifouthkia in the town. This boded well as the food there was always impressive, especially the take-away kebabs.
The appearance was also encouraging. Walking beneath the winter-bare vine, we entered through the impressive church-like arches. The restaurant interior is large, and seats 160 (230 outside in the summer) and is therefore available for birthday parties, christenings or other celebrations. Long, spotlessly clean tables were draped with colourful, embroidered cloths of deep red, yellow and white stripes with crisp plain white ones on top. Gleaming plates and glasses were laid upside down to mark each place setting. The beautiful stone arches gave the room a majestic elegance. Milky-coloured walls contrasted with others painted a warm wine colour and matched in tone with the intricately decorated tablecloths. Candles were lit – the banquet awaited. Greek music filled the room and the faithful old tunes sounded good.
A waitress immediately brought a basket of white bread (not pitta bread), dips and olives to our table, as we settled into our seats. The speciality of the house is meze so we ordered for two. The stream of food began almost immediately, served in terracotta-glazed bowls of different sizes. Forgive me if I do not recall all the seemingly endless supply of food, but it went something like this – the usual dips, hoummous, tahini, taramosalata, olives, Lebanese-style parsley-topped crisps, yoghurt (though no tzatziki), a delicious coriander-laced salad which included feta cheese, soon followed by something which looked like fried Cyprus sweet potato – though the waitress did not know what it was. The food kept coming: okra (ladies’ fingers) in a tomato-based sauce, bourgouri (cracked wheat pilaf), hot halloumi, zalatina (brawn), a boiled egg with ham and cheese, raw artichokes, loukanika (Cyprus spicy sausages), traditional pasta topped with grated halloumi and mint (almost as good as my sweet grandmother Eleni used to make), spinach with courgettes cooked with egg and mushrooms, breadcrumb-coated deep fried balls of what tasted like egg, deep fried crispy courgettes, a minute but tasty portion of kleftico, saute potatoes, chicken and pork kebabs, sheftalia, liver, and pork chops to finish. All this food arrived very quickly, and my plate was over loaded less than half-way through the tasty offerings. Best of the bunch was the okra, with its full, rich sweet flavour, and the spinach and courgette dish cooked with egg. There was plenty of food here for vegetarians and the amount of food could easily have fed three. Our table groaned with food, each dish fighting for space beside the next.
The flyer promised live music every Friday and Saturday, and by 8.30pm two musicians had set up at the far end and warmed up while we listened to Spanish-inspired ready-prepared music. Just after nine they started to sing.
By this time our table had been cleared. We had left so much food. Presently, we were served a plate of whole fruit (a banana, clementines and apples) alongside some loukoumades (doughnuts in syrup). It was a shame that these were served cold as they are so much better hot. This restaurant is capable of brilliance. The food was thoroughly enjoyable, yes, but the little touches like hot loukoumades or warmed hot pitta bread with the starters, and a more personal service, could set it apart from the rest. The waitresses, although friendly enough, did seem a little detached and impersonal. I’d like to see this restaurant up the stakes and offer locals, and visitors to the village, an exemplary dining experience which is hard to forget.
Nevertheless, Alonia is clearly extremely popular and for €14 a person you can eat to your heart’s content.
Speciality: Meze
Where: 37 Ayias Paraskevis, Livadia, Larnaca
Contact: 24 634642
Price: €41.60 meze for two with wine and water
Booking: Advisable
