There is some consolation for the South Africans – and perhaps even a little secret pride – in the unorchestrated response of its lively wine industry to today’s intense international competition. In a world of rising quality – and looming global glut – Cape wine is not at the top of the international league tables. There are neither great wines such as a Grange or an Opus, nor are there heavyweight brands flying the national colour overseas.
But South Africa continues to husband a diversity of unique, rich wines which are modern and traditional, quirky and elegant, all at a time when globalisation encourages stylistic convergence, standardisation and fading national identities. If anything, the Cape is building an image for eclectic abandon in which everyone does his or her own thing. This may be no bad thing.
Recently I sampled some of the wines from Cape wineries imported by Ghalanos Distributors. From the tasting it was clear that when world class Chardonnay, or Cabernet – or, increasingly all six or seven of the premium classic varieties widely grown almost everywhere – are reduced to amorphous international brands, then provenance is compromised. The sometimes amusingly disorganised South African wine scene, which is still in a born-again phase of renewal and optimism since the end of apartheid sanctions in the early 1990s, uses its colourful diversity to build up a wine image with a difference.
Drostdy-Hof
The winery is in the heart of Tullbagh Valley nestled in the magnificent Cape Winelands. Tullbagh with its wealth of national monuments is one of Western Cape’s historical gems. Testimony to this is De Oude Drostdy (drostdy is Dutch for magistrate’s court) which was built and established in 1804 and is considered the winery’s spiritual home. The winery has been in operation since 1964
2005 Drostdy-Hof Chardonnay, Western Cape, Alcohol by Volume 13.5%
It still has decent oak and fruit complexity although I would have rather had younger vintages. Made from mature Chardonnay grapes from Stellenbosch, Malmesbury and Robertson, there are aromas of apple and pear, but the wine is more the citrus version of Chardonnay. Some nutty tropical undertones were evident on the background with touches of smoky and toasty oak. Medium-bodied with good acidity, it finishes with some bitterness at moderate length. Best with seafood risotto, fish in creamy rich sauces or citrus-based salads and served at 10°C. (€6.00)
2006 Drostdy-Hof Cabernet Sauvignon, Western Cape, Alcohol by Volume 14%
This wine has a profound red colour and is young. In fact it is too young so avoid drinking it now. On the nose we have aromas of sweet blackcurrant, plums and cherry and these dominate the fruit side of aromas. The wine is aged in oak barrels therefore we detect the strong aromas of vanilla and truffle. It is medium-bodied and with a mouth feeling of juicy plum flavours, also quite savoury on the palate. The palate is powerful and shows also signs of roundness. Try at 18°C with tomato-based pasta, roast beef or lamb, decanting advisable. €7
Nederburg
Phillipus Wolvaart established this winery in 1791 and it became a leading producer in Paarl Valley. The spiritual home of this winery is the Manor House, a historic symbol of the Nederburg legacy. But it was G?nter Br?zel who won the first international awards, improved vineyard practices and winemaking. Since then it has become the most decorated winery.
2005 Nederburg Chardonnay, Paarl, Western Cape, Alcohol by Volume 14.5%
Beware of the alcohol content of this rich, intense, nutty and toasty Chardonnay. It is almost gold in colour, citrus and apricot, slightly honeyed. There is a dense, mineral taste on the palate with high acidity. It is medium to full-bodied with a toasty and a spicy oak flavour combining well with ripe fruit. At 10°C try this with Thai noodles, tuna or any denser-textured fish in creamy sauces as well as any shellfish €6.89
2004 Nederburg Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot, Paarl, Western Cape, Alcohol by Volume 14%.
This is a luscious blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot creating an accessible wine with a vivid ruby colour. The intensely concentrated blackcurrant, cherry, chocolate and violet flavours give an almost syrupy consistency on the palate. Cellaring left some various elements, fruit, acid oak and tannin are harmoniously integrated. It is enjoyed at 18°C with roasted or braised red meat, but good also with game. €8.25
Fleur du Cap
This is another successful winery located at Bergkelder at Stellenbosch. It is named after the company’s imposing guest villa at Somerset West, pictured on the wine labels.
2004 Fleur de Cap, Pinotage, Bergkelder, Stellenbosch, Western Cape, Alcohol Volume, Alcohol by Volume 14%
This Cinsault-Pinot Noir cross is big and hefty. Dark ruby in colour, with purplish edges, it has concentrated purple plum and mulberry flavours. More whiffs and you discover smoky bacon and chocolate aromas. It is full-bodied on the palate with rich ripe plum flavours, gamey, a good tannic structure and a deliciously oaky tone coming through on the finish. It’s definitely a food, not a party, wine and should be served at 18°C with grilled lamb, pork roasts, or spicy meaty Mexican food. (€11)
2004 Fleur du Cap Merlot, Bergkelder, Stellenbosch, Western Cape, Alcohol by Volume 14%
This full-bodied wine is ruby red in colour, with soft, rich aromas of cherry, deep plum and raisin along with oak spices. It is an easy drinking wine with gentle tannins and ample clean, soft fruit, backed with hints of vanilla. Try this with spicy Mediterranean food served at 17°C, or with roast duck, guinea fowl and mature cheese. (€11)
