We all know that food is fashion. One minute sushi is the latest craze, the next it’s all about veal chops in a classic Tuscan recipe. The big news now is the epitome of fine wine and fine food: oeno-gastronomy.
Which is exactly what I discovered at the 10th birthday celebrations for Spectus, held at the Four Seasons in Limassol. Claude Debussy’s “Romance” was part of the musical entertainment accompanying the event, but it was the romance of wine and food that was the highlight of the evening. George Hadjikyriakos of Spectus and Panikos Hadjitofis head chef at the Four Seasons worked for months to create the menu.
And the romance started with a 1997 Palmes d’ Or Prestige Cuv?e – the flagship of Nicolas Feuillatte. The opening of the champagne was particularly dramatic. Using a sword, George Hadjikyriakos showed a lady from each table how to slice open the cork. Most gave it a go, giggling loudly before they had even had a sip of this precious liquid. The sword pushes the cork out, cracking open the neck of the bottle, but the extreme pressure in the bottle means there are no glass fragments.
A blend of 50 per cent Chardonnay for elegance and finesse and 50 per cent Pinot Noir for body and power, it had a pale yellow hue and fine, delicate bubbles. Pastry, toasted grains and caramel dominate the complex aromas of fennel, star anise and lemon peel. Slightly sweet and doughy in the mouth, it has a tart citrus acidity on a lengthy finish with mixed brioche and baked apple. It was excellent with Alaska crab meat cake and poached crab legs served with mango pur?e and Bottarga Mesolongi.
We were then served an Alsatian Gew?rztraminer 2006, Dopff & Irion of Riquewihr. This was the only wine on the menu not of 1997 vintage. The elegance, finesse and freshness of this wine with its rose and candied fruit aromas and a round full body was outstanding with the fritter of duck foie gras with exotic fruit compote. It was not too bad either with the marble terrine of duck foie gras, though really that was begging for a Sauternes.
Then came the 1997 Ch?teau Margaux, Premi?re Grand Cru Class?. This is a charming dark ruby, purple colour, with raspberry and black currant on the nose with cocoa powder and oak. Although fat, sweet, medium to full and harmonious on the palate with excellent fruit ripeness, it may miss just on the density and depth. It finishes with firm but very suave tannins. The big surprise was that it came in a magnum bottle.
Our hosts had chosen an Italian wine – Venetian to be exact – to serve with roast loin of Irish baby lamb with fresh herbs, grilled polenta, green pea pur?e and braised artichokes.
1997 Bosco Del Merlo, Vineargenti “Plessi”, Delle Venezie is a blend of Cabernet and Refosco dal peduncolo rosso grapes. It is deep, ruby red with garnet-red hues, intense bouquet, fruity and spicy with scents of tobacco and chocolate. On the palate it was strong and full but elegantly mellow on the aftertaste. The bottle itself is a collector’s item and comes complete with an engraved silver-plated label.
Another Venetian wine the Masi Costasera Amarone 1997 was just perfect with aged Pecorino and orange blossom honey. Both wine and cheese get better with age. The wine is complex with cherry-choco tones, some spice, leather and roast nuts. The palate is dense, with good length. It may have lost some fruit, yet it is still charming.
The dinner ended on a high note with a Taylor’s 10-year-old tawny port and Delamain Cognac to complement the Feodora chocolates.
Like Spectus, quite a few other wine merchants are adopting the idea of oeno-gastronomy, which should mean we do not have to wait another10 years for such a meaningful experience. And we the hospitality industry now have a real challenge ahead of us.
