There are three good reasons to feature Alsace. First, it produces some of the best whites on this planet. Second, by the time you read this article I will be in the region as part of the European Best Sommelier Competition’s Cyprus team. Thirdly, George Hadjikyriakos of Spectus has been honoured with the title of Confrere Oenophile from the Confrérie de Saint Etienne. This is a great honour bearing in mind that there were only three new members for 2010 inducted. Congratulations George!
Alsace is possibly the most picturesque wine region in France. It is an enchanted land of beautifully restored, half-timbered houses, flower bedecked balconies and window boxes, and of course vineyards. It is bounded by the Vosges Mountains to the west, which block out the dreary maritime weather that plagues so much of the rest of northern France, and the Rhine River and Germany to the east. It is the sunniest province in northern France, making Alsace an ideal spot for the production of premium wines.
In Alsace, white wine reigns supreme. This is a matter of local preference and tradition, in spite of the province’s production of some very noteworthy Pinot Noir wines. Pinot Blanc is the staple of Alsace, where it makes a fresh, sprightly wine of considerable merit. Nonetheless, the greatness of Alsace lies more typically in the crafting of some of the world’s finest wines from Riesling, Gewürtzraminer and Pinot Gris. The relative dryness of most Alsatian wines may come as a surprise to many, especially those for whom German sounding names and tall thin green bottles are synonymous with sweetness.
Gustave Lorentz
Gustave Lorentz is a family-owned and operated winery that dates back to 1836. At present, the very capable 40-year-old Georges Lorentz is in charge, assisted by his retired father, Charles.
The Lorentz winery is one of the largest family-owned facilities in Alsace. It encompasses 66 acres of premium vineyards in Bergheim, located in the very finest section of Alsace. This is real Alsace wine country, the very heart of the famous Route de Vin. All Lorentz wines come from this area, known as the Haut-Rhin, and express the unique Bergheim terroir.
Like most Alsace producers, Gustave Lorentz features several levels of wine from a wide variety of traditional Alsace grapes. Apart from the ubiquitous Pinot Blanc grape that provides a steady income and a solid foundation upon which Lorentz, like the majority of Alsace growers, is building his empire, Riesling, Tokay Pinot Gris and Gewürtzraminer constitute the pinnacle of this property’s achievement. In addition, Lorentz wines are featured in many of the Michelin-starred restaurants in Alsace and some of the finest restaurants around the world.
2008 Gustave Lorentz, Gewurztraminer Réserve, Vine D’Alsace, Bergheim – Haut Rhin, France, abv 13.5%
Gewürtz in German means spice. This is a traditionally-styled Gewürtz with a classic but not overbearing nose of spice, roses, exotic fruits and some minerality. A nose brimming with fruit and spice, and rich and full in the mouth. Rose petals and Cyprus delight aromas with hints of both on the palate. There is then a lovely richness but it cuts nicely to a dry, slightly earthy finish. This wine can be enjoyed with spicy food, Chinese food, sweet & sour dishes, mild curry or Tandoori chicken. €15.95
2008 Gustave Lorentz, Riesling Réserve, Vin D’Alsace, Bergheim – Haut Rhin, France, abv 12.5%
This tastes like Riesling yet without the residual sugar. This beauty produced by Gustave Lorentz proves that this grape can produce high acid, crisp, dry wines that exhibit loads of minerals laced with citrus fruit, floral notes and possessing an exceptionally long, lingering finish. A classic Alsatian Riesling, bone dry, mineral driven, with a touch of richness typical of wines from this region. Riesling is a gastronomic wine par excellence; it is unrivalled to accompany fish, shellfish, seafood and white meats. €13
2008 Gustave Lorentz, Fleurelle, Vin D’Alsace, Bergheim – Haut Rhin, France, abv 13.5%
This is a lovely blend of Muscat, Pinot Blanc and Sylvaner. Once complete the wine is matured in bottles, unlabelled, in the cellars, which are temperature controlled or air-conditioned, on average two to three years after harvesting. This has produced a wine with fragrant aromas of peaches, lemon drops, blossom and slate, minerals and obvious musky-grapey aromas from the Muscat. On the palate it’s zippy and fresh with honey, pomelo citrus and peach skin. It is crisp and refreshing, just off-dry. A light, easy drinking wine which is perfect with medium to soft cheeses, as an aperitif, with asparagus, seafood, light chicken recipes and salads. €12
Dopff & Irion of Riquewihr
2006 Château Isenbourg, Le Clos, Les Tourelles, Vin D’Alsace, Riquewihr, France, abv 12.5%
Le Clos is a superb terraced vineyard famed since the 15th century for the quality of its terroir. Crowned by the Isenbourg castle, this walled vineyard is a rarity in Alsace, with an exceptional microclimate. The grapes ripen slowly, sheltered from the wind by the thick, pink, sandstone walls. This wine is meant to join in one wine glass the delicacy, finesse, elegance and nobility of Riesling, balanced taste and body of Pinot Gris, elegant sweetness and subtle bouquet of Gewürtzraminer and freshness of Pinot Blanc.
Lovely fresh but delicate nose that is perfumed and limey with some sweet notes of honey and apricots and apple smoky edge. The palate is dry, it shows lovely concentration of ripe, sweet, lemony Riesling fruit, peach and melon with a suggestion of some spice where along with the acidity it balances any residual sugar. Excellent with pungent Chinese style pork, tuna prepared Provencal style, sushi and sashimi, seafood. €19.55
2007 Dopff & Irion, Gentil, Vin d’Alsace, Riquiwihr, France, abv12.5%
Decades ago, some of the finest Alsace wines were called Gentil. By local custom, AC regulation, this wine must be made with “noble varieties” (Gewürtzraminer, Muscat Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Sylvaner). Dopff and Irion Gentil has a pale lemon colour; on the nose fresh honey and floral aromas followed by those of pear and apple as well as white grapes and ginger. On the palate this dry wine has a lively, youthful, fresh character that is refreshing with pleasant, scented finish. More white grapes, pear and grapefruit flavours are found on the palate, fresh and racy, with a slight spiciness and just a hint of honeyed fruit sweetness. This joyous and convivial wine is the perfect sip with friends, or to enjoy with simple everyday meals. It is best enjoyed chilled with fish, shellfish, starters, and hors d’oeuvres. €11.50
All wines are imported and distributed by Spectus, Tel: 22 511987 or 25 348863
