For some, old ways still win the customers

IT’S 2AM on a Saturday and the hunger pangs have kicked in. I’m greeted by a flashy sign, a couple of automatic doors, rows upon rows of heated glass cabinets, music in the background and just about every quick eat imaginable. When was it that humble bakeries came to resemble flash supermarkets, catering to your every need 24-hours a day?
At first, the phenomenon was rather exciting as bakeries cleaned up: flies no longer swarmed around the bread on display, and it became effortless to grab a bite at any given moment.
Then came the vast counters of take-away food cleverly marketed as ‘homemade’ style grub that encouraged even more punters. And there’s no need to go very far: some areas boast two bakeries of the same chain within 500m of each other – or less. But somewhere between all the redecorating and catchy advertising, things have taken a turn for the worse.
You may have breakfast, lunch and dinner at your feet but there seems to be something missing, as true quality is replaced by mass-produced goods that hardly taste like what a good pie or cake should. That’s not to mention that prices have rocketed, becoming quite the norm to pay almost €2 for any one item. Ask for a kilo of pastries and you’ll be looking to pay at least €11.
Take a step away from the big guys in the capital and you’ll come across the smaller, more humble places that have stuck to quality and doing things the old fashioned way. Twice as Nice is one such family run establishment that has lured in loyal fans since it first opened 18 years ago.
It may be located on the main Aglandjia Avenue but there’s absolutely nothing that screams out for attention. More of a case of what you see is what you get: prices are still written by hand, staff buzz around in hats and aprons and head of the establishment, Kikkis Evripidou, darts here and there making sure everything is running smoothly.
What’s quite remarkable is that within minutes walking distance from this enterprise are approximately 10 other larger and more noticeable bakeries, begging the question of how a small place like Twice as Nice deals with the competition.
“People come here because of the quality that can’t easily be found elsewhere, that’s why we’ve survived. Big bakery chains produce 500 pies at the push of a button, it’s all about producing in bulk with machines,” says Kikkis. “But we do everything by hand. There’s no fancy machines; here, come and take a look.”
He beckons me into the kitchen where the action begins at 6am every morning. I’m greeted by about a dozen women who seem to symbolise the epitome of successful division of labour, each busy with a separate task.
“They’ve been brilliant. Most people that work for me have been here about 15 to 18 years; without them none of this would have happened.”
As Kikkis shows me the ropes, I soon find out that place doesn’t add a single preservative or colouring into their goods. Tinned and canned goods are also a big no-no.
“We peel all our apples for the pies; we make our own jam; we never used tinned mushrooms. Take the tandoori chicken pies, we cook the whole chicken ourselves and then pick it apart.”
With 32 different types of savouries now available and eight different types of creams, I’m told most of the recipes were ideas handed over by his wife, Andri, whom he also praises a great deal.
“She’s a brilliant cook who has come up with some really unique flavours.”
Reaching towards the fridge, Kikkis proudly shows me all the fresh cream and milk he uses as opposed to many artificial creams and powders preferred by many as a cheaper substitute. 
Taking a step away from what goes on behind the scenes, I wonder if renovating the shop has ever been on the cards.
“I won’t deny that it’s hard when you’re competing against big chains with huge premises that make everything from ready food to sandwiches,” he replies.
“But if I had started expanding or spending money on better décor I would have been forced to become ruthless and cut out some of the quality. And it’s the quality that makes our customers happy.”
With all the talk of first class produce and a hands-on approach in the kitchen, I find it hard to fathom how he manages to reel in the profit.
“The first ten years were really hard,” he admits. “But now that bigger chains have raised their prices we’re no more expensive than anyone else. And when people want to buy something really special, they come to us. That makes me extremely grateful.”
I’m soon told that Kikkis has never advertised and has relied solely on word of mouth for all the years Twice as Nice has been open – quite an achievement, considering people from other towns call in to place orders.
Another establishment that has hardly changed since it first opened back in 1942 is Hurricane situated at the end of Ledra Street, around the corner from the old Tsaousis building. Attracting people from all over the capital, it has become particularly famous because of its notorious cheese pies that have people swarming into the place every morning when they come out hot from the oven. Other specialities include tahini pies, almond croissants and traditional biscuits.
Taken over by Nikos and Eirini Nikolaou in 1990, the place in itself it little larger than a hole in the wall, complete with a few original 1940s tables and wooden chairs coupled by intricate glass cabinets displaying all the treats. The kitchen takes up a small room at the back of the establishment with a total of five staff running the place.
Not just all about a quick dash in and out, the good thing about this bakery is that you can sit down and have a drink with your treat. Some sit and read their paper, others chat among themselves as the smell of freshly baked produce wafts throughout the place.
In a similar fashion to Twice as Nice, work begins at 6am, with the cheese pies coming out of the oven every half hour until lunchtime. Nikos was taught the tricks of the trade because his dad used to work at Hurricane alongside the original owner, Yiannakis Stamatis.
“The basic recipe is the same one used when the place first opened. But I’ve tried different techniques to perfect my cheese pies and have now decided on a combination of eight types of cheeses,” he says.
“It’s all done by hand and I take great care in choosing my ingredients. These days you can even get ready egg powder but I would never do that”
With Nikos and his wife at the front of the shop, customers are warmly welcomed as I watch people greeting the couple on a first name basis. “That’s so important for us. People come here and expect to see us and have a chat,” Nikos points out with a smile. 
In an attempt to draw in younger clientele, Hurricane underwent minimal renovation five years ago. “I made sure that I kept the original style and character of the place though. If we looked the same as FloCafé or Starbucks, why would they make the extra effort to come and sit here? Even young people are starting to appreciate and distinguish where to go for good quality.”
Nikos points out that while each pie costs him about 60 per cent more to produce than the big bakeries, he would never consider changing his formula to cut costs.
“At the end of the day we still manage to make profit and we’re still cheaper than the rest.”
A Hurricane cheese pie costs €1.20 for take away and €1.50 if you choose to sit down. Considering Hurricane’s popularity, I ask if they have ever thought of opening up elsewhere.
“Not at all. Hurricane is about being in old Nicosia, in this old building. We would never change that.”
The conversation then leads to couples who fell in love after numerous visits to Hurricane together, people who have been going to the place religiously for over 30 years, and other youngsters who were introduced to the establishment by their grandparents.
In a fast-paced, modern world, it turns out that sticking to traditions doesn’t necessarily leave you lagging behind.