Barone Ricasoli
Fine wines from a noble family of Italy
It‘s not often that a Baron visits Cyprus, especially one whose name is printed on thousands of wine labels every year and has been for centuries. Barone Francesco Ricasoli, who took over control of his family business in 1993, spent a few days on the island following an invitation from Victor Papadopoulos of La Maison du Vin. The Ricasoli used to be considered by some as the Lafite of Tuscany so it was interesting to taste the current range of his wines.
For ten consecutive centuries the property and the superior management of Brolio had always been maintained by the Ricasoli family. This is a family with a history that began as part of the noble feudal family of the Emperor Carlo Magno. Generations of noble Ricasolis can be traced back to Castello di Brolio, from the never ending battles with Sienna all the way to unification of Italy. After all, it was Baron Bettino Ricasoli “the Iron Baron” who held the position of Prime Minister of the then unified Italy. Evidence of vine cultivation from as early as the 16th century shows that Brolio had exported to Amsterdam and London. Twentieth century and exports reached as far as China, twenty first in Cyprus.
The Castle of Brolio is impressive. It dates back to the Middle Ages and was awarded to the Ricasolis in exchange for land back in 1141. It is actually located on the border between Sienna and Florence and represented a Florentine fortress against continuously hostile Sienna. It withstood several attacks and combats, culminating finally in the air raids of WWII. The castle has been reconstructed and restored numerous times. It is around this castle the Iron Baron divided his time between political responsibilities as Prime Minister and those of an innovative entrepreneur and researcher. He introduced experimental vineyards, the first programme of education for the employees of Brolio and, above all, the formula of Chianti Classico wine. It emerged that from the best quality vineyards the most elaborate blend is Sangiovese grape with Canaiolo and a small percentage of Malvasia (only when producing wine not intended to age). Recently the formula has been modified with Sangiovese the main grape and a maximum of 20 per cent of other varieties.
Today there are 500 acres of vineyards all of which are located around the castle. They have been completely replanted with two objectives: to reconstruct the personality of each vineyard according to the ancient traditions and pursue the continuous role of producing excellent wine, which began in the 19th century, while incorporating a modern element. The current production is around two million bottles of wine.
The Wines
2007 Torricella Chardonnay, Barone Ricasoli, Toscana IGT, abv 14%
This 100% Chardonnay is fermented in stainless steel and 2/3 in new barrels. The name Torricella derives from a small vineyard that was planted with Chardonnay at the end of the 1980s.
It has an intense yellow colour, a classic exponent of the modern style of ‘barrel fermented’ Chardonnay. The wine structure is medium to full bodied, fresh, with clean and crisp mouthfeel, and a nose with rich scents of honey, citrus and honeydew melon. The palate is bright, harmonious and elegant. The finish is long with citrus flavour and acidity. Enjoy with Provolone cheese, stuffed clams, smoked salmon, chicken or pork with cream.
€17.50
2008 Rosato Albia, Barone Ricasoli, Toscana IGT, abv 13%
A blend of Sangiovese and Merlot grapes, this is a fresh and fragrant ros?, with all the characteristics preserved and a screw cap to add a modern touch. Pale pomegranate pink colour, it exhibits flowery aromas on the nose; scents of violet and rose followed by fruity hints of strawberry and raspberry, nicely buttery, ripe smooth fruit. Refreshing acidity and softness in the mouth, velvety and harmonious with persistent fruit, the palate has a certain weight with a tannic grip and a full bodied presence, though staying fresh and crisp. Try this summery wine with cold cuts platter, shrimps, chicken wings and barbecued pork.
€13.50
2006 Rocca Guicciarda, Chianti Classico, Riserva DOCG, abv 13.5%
Rocca Guicciarda is the name of the estate’s Chianti Classico Riserva, a traditional wine exhibiting austere character, complex but easy to drink. Mainly with Sangiovese grape complemented with other red grape varieties, the colour is ruby red with violet reflections. Big, smoky, herbal it has quite ripe black fruits with a velvety quality. Scents of blackberries, raspberries and violets embark on the nose. Rounded body with tannins and fine structure and texture, keen lemony fruit and acidity and the cherry quality pushes through. The finale is long and warming, with spice and a hint of coffee. Generally this Chianti will favour meat pastas in tomato sauces and cheesy pizzas.
€22
2007 Chianti del Barone Ricasoli, Chianti DOCG, abv 13%
A wine, as the price suggests, for everyday drinking, well balanced and pleasant. Bright ruby red in colour, grapey and cherry notes, some currant, wild violet and lots of plum fruit. This Sangiovese-based wine has soft tannins with a smooth mouthfeel. Very easy drinking and fruity, with some white pepper notes, the acidity is at acceptable levels, this delightful wine has a fruity, medium length finish. Definitely a joy in summer, it is ready to drink slightly cool before pairing it with your pizza or pasta.
€13
2005 Casalferro, Barone Ricasoli, Toscana IGT, abv 14%
This Sangiovese (70%) and Merlot (30%) blend is a wine with a modern but serious approach. Both grapes mature for 18 months in barriques; it has an intense ruby colour, creamy and more Merlot dominated nose, with plum and blackcurrant dark fruits. There is a svelte, plush mouth filling texture and depths of flavour, but the sour, mouth-puckering cherry and lemon acidity that makes this very Italian and very Sangiovese. Long and powerful, an excellent wine to keep for cooler months and enjoy with beef and tomato, veal cutlet or veal piccata.
€33
2005 Castello di Brolio, Chianti Classico, Barone Ricasoli, DOCG, abv 14%
This wine aims to express the Brolio terroir. Barone Ricasoli was particularly proud of this ‘great wine’ – the greatness achieved by selecting the best grapes and is closely connected to the evolution of the year’s harvest. This is a blend of Sangiovese at 90% with a small amount of 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Kept for 18 months in barriques, this is a more fragrant wine, with a complex and persistent bouquet of kirsch and spicy notes, and a touch of seeds and herbs and a plum and black fruit character, leather and smoky notes. The palate has dryness and that ashy quality of the Sangiovese, intense, concentrated and extremely enveloping red fruit flavour with plenty of spice, and plenty of liquoricy, dark tannins. It is big, grippy and built for long haul. Try with tomato and meat based pastas.
€37
2003 Castello di Brolio Vin Santo delChianti Classico DOC abv 16.5%
Finally a dessert wine, a Vin Santo from one of the historic grapes of the territory Malvasia del Chianti. The grapes are dried for three months and for 24 months the wine undergoes slow fermentation in wood, followed by 24 months maturation in oaks casks. Yellow in colour with amber reflections, tobacco, toffee and the obvious honey and some floral character, and all the sweet enveloping marmalade sweetness. The palate is thick and unctuous with powerful concentration and subtle layers of nuttiness (sweet almonds), raisins, and preserved lemon, before a kick of alcohol that will mellow over 10 years or more. Terrific structure.
€33
Imported and distributed by La Maison du Vin Tel: 25 736220 or 22 442235
