The garden of the Virgin Mary
A look at the fruits of vineyards on Mount Athos
When the Virgin Mary visited Athos, she was so impressed with the beauty of the peninsula that she asked God to let her put Athos under her protection. From then it was named ‘the garden of the Virgin Mary’ and ‘Ayion Oros’ (Holy Mountain). In this independent monastic community lie 20 monasteries, 12 monastic villages and 700 small communities of Christian Orthodox monks who are dedicated to prayer, obedience and meditation.
Wine has always been an integral part of the Orthodox religion and it is also part of life on Mount Athos. Vine cultivation was one of the most important occupations of the monks that lasted throughout the centuries, creating a winemaking tradition. The harvest was a ceremony with no songs and dances but only the discreet sound of the scissors, an inner entreaty and heartfelt thanks to the Creator for the crop.
Vine cultivation sadly declined in late 19th century. Divine intervention though saved ‘the garden of Virgin Mary’. In 1971, in the middle of a storm, Evangelos Tsantalis sought refuge among the monks at the Domain of Chromitsa. There he saw a vineyard that the monks did not tend any more. Tsantalis offered his help in tending the unique vineyard, if he was also allowed to make wine for himself. The monks grasped the opportunity and almost 40 years later we can taste the wines of Mount Athos.
There are combinations of factors that persuaded Evangelos to his decision. The climate is typical Med with mild winters and a bit of snow. Temperatures are rarely below -2°C and, come April, the weather gets warmer, with many hours of sunshine. The vineyards face southeast, ideal for maximum exposure to the sun, therefore perfecting the ripening of the grapes. The deep roots of the indigenous plants satisfy their thirst from the melted ice water. Like Cyprus, there is a little rainfall in the summer. Sea and mountains with pine forests surround the vineyards resulting in an outstanding microclimate. The sea abates the high summer temperatures and offers the necessary evening moisture to the vineyard soil. The mountains secure low temperatures in the evening, which hinders the onset of the sugar breakdown cycle and facilitates a better maturation process.
Most of the vineyards are laid out in terraces at a 250m height, planted in deep sandy-clay soil. The light, nearly transparent, soil reflects the sun’s rays away from the ground during the day and towards the vineyard in the evening. This keeps the temperature low in the summer.
The Domain of Metochi vineyards of Chromitsa is ideal for organic farming. On the one hand there is the dry climate and on the other, the sandy soil and strict isolation of the vineyards from other cultivations, which offers an excellent basis for organic farming. The results are lower yields of grapes, which make more concentrated, complex wines.
In Chromitsa the Aegean varieties of Roditis, Assyrtiko and Athiri are grown along with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. As for red grape varieties, Xinomavro, Limnio (one of the oldest Greek grape varieties) as well as Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache rouge and Merlot are grown.
All these factors seem to influence the experienced Tsantalis to lease the vineyards from the church. The new Tsantalis wines feature an impressive mix of native and international varieties, not only from Mount Athos Region but also from Halkidiki and Maronia, Thrace.
Wines of the week
2008 Metohi Chromitsas, Assyrtiko – Sauvignon Blanc, Agioritikos Regional, abv 12%
The Tsantali wine philosophy is consistent: keep the canopy – keep the acidity. This is a 50/50 blend with an enticing aromatic nose of sweet pear, granny smith apple and musk melon, vegetal, in particular asparagus, notes adding to the complexity of the wine. The palate is rich and fatty, the crisp minerality and strong acidic backbone bolsters softer floral notes. Warm finish but still refreshing, a perfect summer patio wine with seafood or fish cooked in creamy sauces. €11.37
2008 Kanenas, Moschato Alexadrias – Chardonnay, Ismarikos Regional, abv 12%
A blend of 60% Moschato and 40% Chardonnay but neither grape dominates. A youthful wine that shows fragrant aromas of ripe fruit, white rose, apricot and citrus as well as a touch of grape and spice. The attractive bouquet is beautifully harmonised with no one flavour dominating. On the palate it is creamy, with satin smooth texture and well-balanced acidity. Seafood and grilled fish as well as chicken dishes. €12.76
2008 Klima – Klima Assyrtiko, Organic, Halkidikis Regional, abv 12.5%
This is an unusual Assyrtiko with complex aromas of citrus, white peaches, apricot, and white flowers reminiscent of spring; the complexity in the aroma is complete with some honey notes. It has a rich and well-balanced refreshing acidity with mineral notes lingering to a long aromatic finish. Best enjoyed with fish and seafood as well as salads and light chicken dishes. €15.58
2008 Metochi Chromitsas X Assyrtico-Athiri-Sauvignon Blanc, Agioritikos Regional, abv 12%
Yet another summer-drinking wine, fresh with floral, exotic fruit and citrus aromas with some spice, vegetal hints create a piquant bouquet. There is some weight in this wine, a structure, some creaminess that does not sacrifice the crispiness and juicy acidity on the finish. A good expression of Mount Athos terroir, enjoy with seafood, grilled trout or salmon, and light chicken dishes. €18.40
2008 Kanenas, Mavroudi-Syrah, Ros?, Ismarikos Regional, abv 12.5%
A blend of 50/50 and a good combination, with ripe fresh strawberries adding an intriguing note of earthy minerality. Clean, crisp and bone dry on the palate with cherry-berry fruit and a dash of white pepper framed by appropriately tart acidity. It finishes smoothly, the sweet red berries aroma lingering for some time. Red mullet, charcutterie, pasta and prawns, risotto are excellent partners to this versatile ros?. €12.76
2007 Metochi Chromitsas, Limnio-Cabernet Sauvignon, Agioritikos Regional, abv 13.5%
This is an elegant wine, showing a concentrated core of rose petals and violets, with nuances of blackberry fruit, thyme and rosemary. This is a wine with enough structure and fruit to develop into something special over the next five years. Soft but concentrated tannins, vanilla and black pepper are muddled indicating the use of American oak, a wine with character, ripe blackcurrant that holds to the finish. Try with pasta served with meaty, rich sauces and roast beef or lamb. €14.95
2006 Kanenas – Mavroudi-Syrah, Ismarikos Regional, abv 13.5%
A very elegant Syrah, not as jammy or heavy as the usual fare. It serves up black cherry and plum fruit with a hint of all spice, green pepper and toast. Silky, smooth palate with just enough acid and tannin to give it structure and balance. Perfect to accompany beef barbecue etc. €16.96
2005 Metochi Chromitsas X, Xinomavro-Limnio-Cabernet Sauvignon, Agioritikos Regional, abv 13.5%
For a blend of Xinomavro, Limnio and Cabernet, this started with a deep cassis nose, dipping with a good ripe, peppery, scrummy fruit surrounded by smoky oak and baking spice. Drinks beautifully with a wonderful balance, the palate is firm, piquant cassis flavours, chocolate and vanilla leading to a classic finish that promises a good wine to partner pepper steaks, game or roast duck with caramelised fruit. €26.91
2006 Klima-Klima, Cabernet Sauvignon Organic, Halkidiki Regional, abv 14%
With concentrated aromas of wild berries, cassis, cherry, allspice, cedar and tobacco, this wine’s complexity continues to the flavours. A round tannin balance supports this medium to full bodied wine’s ripe fruit. It will continue to age gracefully for a decade. Accompanies charcoal grill steaks or foie gras. €23.9
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