It just gets harder and harder to find places where one can eat, drink and relax in comfortable surroundings, where the waiting staff genuinely enjoy the job, places that allow you to leave feeling as if the entire experience was pleasant and at the same time will offer excellent value for money. I want a taverna to stick to the path it knows best and that’s certainly not to go off and wander down the international cuisine route, as most end up serving dishes that are about as international as a tinkling, bell-laden Morris dancer.
So, its was a huge relief to discover a taverna that doesn’t give a stuff for internationalism, preferring to stick to what it knows best – Cypriot dishes. And the refreshingly honest meze on offer at the Gabriel Taverna in Kouklia is worth noting for all the right reasons.
The village square in Kouklia fairly bristles with restaurants, with a total of nine eateries within walking distance of each other, but the Gabriel does have instant visual appeal – an old stone structure that has survived as a coffee shop since it was first constructed in 1836 and mercifully still retains some lovely old features such as the vaulted ceiling, beautifully constructed windows and flooring. The veranda offer diners a good view of the square and although it’s a touch drafty during winter, it’s still nice to eat and drink outdoors even in February, when wisdom dictates the wearing of a vest to then enjoy the added attraction of people watching from this excellent vantage point.
The meze has all the usual ‘dip’ suspects served with warm village bread with the balance of the menu reflecting the owner’s sense of the traditional by always trying to source ingredients that are in season. So we enjoyed a dish of squash mixed with eggs, wild mushrooms, perfectly grilled vegetables, and a warming pot of good homemade moussaka.
The other standard dishes included grilled halloumi, spicy sausage, sheftalia, pork kebab and moist, un-cremated chicken partnered with a huge bowl of salad and proper chips – all for only €12 per head. With a bottle of good local wine at €9 Euros and a 5cl imported gin and tonic for €3.50, you can tell this is a family who understand the dynamics of running a tavern by not ripping off on the food nor by marking up to ridiculous levels the drinks. Here they just want you to enjoy your lunch or supper so you will be happy enough to make a return visit and also pass on this new discovery to friends and family.
Gabriel acts as the front of house along with his wife and mother, and all are proud of their ability to offer fresh food cooked the traditional way and to always using their own organic oil harvested from their olive groves.
Its interesting to note Gabriel is also a qualified goldsmith having been taught the craft from his father Theo, but these days the high price of gold dictates craftsmen such as they cannot afford to purchase the raw material to maintain their business, but, on the upside any ladies wishing to have a quick estimate on the family jewels can use Gabriel’s knowledge to find out if indeed the diamond and emerald set engagement ring is indeed the ‘real thing’ or a good imitation (on second thoughts perhaps this is not such a good idea).
Another plus point is the taverna is open from early morning until midnight so a hearty breakfast or light lunch is available for those who venture forth to the Temple of Aphrodite there to walk around the ruins, visit the museum also the restored medieval mansion all of which are only a five-minute walk away. This allows you to feel quite virtuous as you tuck into a good lunch knowing you have trodden in the footsteps of Aphrodite and, as we all now know, she was definitely the kind of gal who would have relished nothing better than a jolly good meze.
VITAL STATISTICS
SPECIALITY Traditional Cypriot
WHERE Village Square, Kouklia, Paphos
CONTACT 99 633745
PRICE meze €12
