By Paul Lambis
As you pour yourself a relaxing glass of Commandaria, sipping it slowly and savouring its rich, fruity taste, imagine yourself hundreds of years ago in the royal courts of Europe enjoying exactly the same wine, made in the same way, and even tasting pretty much the same.
Anyone who is familiar with the island and its customs and traditional products will know that Commandaria is almost the national drink. But did you know, however, that Cyprus is the only country in the world allowed to produce Commandaria? That the wine in its present form dates back to the Middle Ages, as far as the Crusades? It was even enjoyed at the wedding of England’s King Richard to Princess Berengaria, and at his wedding feast at Kolossi Castle in Limassol the former proclaimed Commandaria, “The King of Wines and the Wine of Kings.”
Its royal connection extends even further, as it has been said that in 1363 in the great City of London Commandaria was served at the famous “Feast of the Five Kings.”
A great dinner was hosted by the Master of the Vintners, Alderman Sir Henry Picard, for five of contemporary Europe’s greatest kings – Edward the third of England, John the second of France, David the second of Scotland, Valdemar the fourth of Denmark and Peter the first of Cyprus. Legend has it that although there is no official record, Commandaria was the wine selected by Picard to please all the royal and noble palates, probably because it was the only wine strong enough to handle the rather challenging transportation methods of the time. There is even a famous painting hanging in the Royal Exchange of London which depicts the glamour and magnificence of the event.
As a wine, Commandaria very much belongs to Cyprus. In its original form it was probably the wine referred to by ancient Greek writer Hesiod (4,000 years ago), where he speaks about the “Nama of Cyprus.” That wine is still around today; perhaps it has been refined and adapted through the years but it is truly one of the oldest, most original wines of the world, with wines even in Portugal and France having originated from the vines of Cyprus.
There are many other interesting facts associated with Commandaria, including its name. History tells us that King Richard sold Cyprus to raise money for his Crusades and the Knights Templar; the island was then further sold to Frenchman Guy de Lusignan, but unusually, it wasn’t the French influence which established Commandaria as a wine of choice; it was the Knights. They may have sold the island to the Frenchman, but they kept a huge piece of land for themselves which they called “Le Grand Commanderie.” It was used mainly as the Knights’ military headquarters, but as time went on, the Knights found themselves turning their attention to the vineyards on their estate, taking the production of Commandaria and perfecting it to become a wine rich in taste and colour. In fact, its reputation spread quickly and it became so popular as an exported wine to the European courts that there are many written references to its popularity and quality.
What really makes Commandaria stand apart though, is that the way it was made all those hundreds of years ago, together with the fact that it is named after the region where it was produced.
Commandaria can also stake its claim as the winner of the world’s first recorded wine competition. Held in the thirteenth century by French King Philip Augustus as “La Battaile des Vins” or “The Battle of the Wines,” Commandaria managed, against odds, and as the extreme outsider, to beat all the competing wines from France and the rest of Europe.
As a thoroughly Cypriot product, Commandaria is very much protected by law; it is only allowed to be made in Cyprus and sold as Commandaria. As the holder of a Protected Designation of Origin from the European Union, America, and Canada, legally no one else in the world can make a wine and call it Commandaria. The Cypriot Government also passed further legislation in 1990, which gave official protection to the 14 villages in what was the Commandaria region, located at the foothills of the Troodos Mountains. But it is not only the place that has been given official support; the way the wine is made is also protected and enforced. Firstly, grapes must stay on the vines for a minimum of four years, with restricted watering – this results in high sugar content.
Even the grapes used are indigenous to Cyprus, with a 50 per cent mix each of the Mavro and Xynisteri. The sugar content of the grapes is checked and only those with the highest concentration are picked, after which they are laid out in the sun. In fact, in the past, the grapes were laid out on flat stone and mud roofs to prevent them from being stolen and eaten by animals. The fermentation process for Commandaria is one of its distinguishing features: the grapes are left to ferment until there is nothing left to ferment! Commandaria also needs to mature for a minimum of three years, which is done these days in oak barrels unlike before where it was stored in clay pots.
As you raise your glass of ‘the wine of kings and king of wines,’ and take in its sweet, pleasant taste and rich aroma, think about all the great people throughout time who have enjoyed and savoured Commandaria, and perhaps you will understand why it is respected as such a commanding wine.
