The town is abuzz with wasps on wheels clasping boxes of food attached to tiny scooters piloted by kamikaze jousters from Asia pledged to reach their target via sat-nav. This is what fine dining has become. Alas. Meals on two wheels for the comfortable classes. Within specified hours.
However, if we ignore the usual noxious fare that shortens the lives of our progeny – much of which we have never heard of – that is their standard form of sustenance there are hundreds of little enterprises legally dispensing the dishes that enabled their papou to continue with his labours in the fields. The delivery was then made by the eldest child or may have involved the spouse; no sat-nav necessary in those days, the donkey knew the way, and definitely no pizzas or burgers. Olives, bread, cheese and zivania sustained the man in the field. Things have changed a little now.
If one is to pursue the delivery route for the reader then it should embrace either the comfort of the commonplace and safe: liver and bacon; tripe and onions, steak and kidney pudding that the diner can’t be bothered to take from the refrigerator; or the exotic, such as one encounters within the walls of Akakiko, a Louis enterprise attached to Hilton Park Hotel. Their theme is Japanese – not too many in Nicosia, and since I reviewed the previous establishment, it has gone through many changes. But nothing as drastic as the customer being ejected by 7pm, or even not allowed through the doors. If we are to preserve the romantic evening then serious planning is required, Sushi must be fresh.
Not for Akakko the foil container, plastic box and wrap-around. Their deliveries come in designer boxes, bright red, gleamingly oriental, flip down catches opening onto our order and its essential condiments all contained in tiny flasks that must have many uses thereafter. From the extensive menu we have selected a Dragon roll containing sushi as fresh as the ‘itamae-san’ can roll the Dragon off the cypress mat. The chef offers eight sushi rolls with an inner and outer nori lining and filled with tempura prawns, salmon, dry masagar, and strips of smoked umagi (eel), aubergine, and a little too much carrot for my liking. The companion decided we should ignore the wasabi, and stay with pickled ginger and the little dishes of soy. Her Jungle roll was anything but savage; perfect little cuts of sushi wrapped tuna, salmon, aubergine with yoghurt dressing. All very fresh and most importantly, they maintain their integrity. A common fault among the inexperienced proprietor.
One must draw attention to the rather elaborate system of ordering. It is not for the faint-hearted. But once mastered, everything ran like clockwork. ‘What time do want it’ Do not be frivolous with your timing: if you state 19.03; that’s when you will get it. The boxes are perfect and undisturbed. The rider carries a credit card register. Have you noticed how money seems to be going out of fashion?
The Akakiko menu is the most extensive in Nicosia and they actually make their products on scene. Many outlets buy in. Given the elaborate arrangements – I am always impressed if a deliverer can find my address; the postman can’t – book early.
There is a small delivery charge and the total bill came to €29.20.
Akakiko Japanese Restaurant, Hilton Park Hotel, Engomi, Nicosia. Tel: 77778022
