One of our scribes, renowned for discovering value for money venues that maintain a high standard of cuisine no matter how oppressive the economy suggested I try the above. Following our visit, I find no reason to disagree with him. However, it is clear he obviously has a predilection for the décor of 70s Kings Road bistros: a loop of the great tourists traps of Italy – Duomos, bridges, rivers, cathedrals; walls garnished with wine boxes, stripped pine and maple flooring and many more artistic delights. And why not. As regular readers know my constant companion is a child of the Piedmont, therefore whenever I encounter an establishment in our dear capital that claims to be Italian, there are certain standard dishes I expect: any of the veal variety particularly Ossibuchi – braised calves shin; and Zampone – stuffed pig’s foot. Ultra salivators. Not tonight, alas.
But when it comes to pasta and rice, one would have to travel far-a-field to match the variety of dishes Just Italian offers, including the best risotto my companion claims she has consumed in Cyprus: Risotti Gamberoni served in a proper risotto dish – a deep bowl with a broad rim, on which one places the remains of the giant prawns. Another bellwether is minestrone, a particular favourite of mine and the soup, properly prepared, that sustains the Italian peasantry until the evening meal. I ordered this to start and the companion needed insalata; there are seven on offer from burrata to quinoa, but madam thinks they were too large and requires a half portion – no trouble. Goat’s cheese, spinach and dry figs and strawberries. I found the soup a task, it was so substantial. A grating note was when the waiter slammed a plate of bread and sauce down without any comment. Perhaps he was unhappy.
The management offer 15 pasta dishes, which they make daily, filled and accompanied with everything you expect from the Italians. They produce 12 Pizzas, three chicken dishes, three pork and four beef fillets dressed with peppers, wild mushrooms and fresh herbs, rib-eye and similar. Three fishy offers, from which I chose Linguini with the Frutti di Mare. Whenever I see this dish I recall Tony Bourdain’s caveat, but thankfully, in this case he was wrong; it was delicious but I couldn’t eat all of it. We ordered a bottle of Tsiakkas that had a sufficiently sour note to complement the marine dwellers.
Two delicious sweets followed and it was good to see the restaurant slowly filling with the hungry young observing the new hygiene laws. There is space inside and out and no problem with parking.
VITAL STATISTICS
SPECIALTY Italian
WHERE 1, Andrea Chailou, Engomi, Nicosia. Next to Coffee Beanery
CONTACT 22 780600, 22 780601
PRICE Reasonable
