By Bejay Browne
A recent visit to family-run Chez Mamma Bistro at Casa Mespilea in Paphos old town left me in a real quandary.
Should I selfishly desist from reviewing this treasure, keeping its culinary delights to just those in the know, or share a great ‘find’ with an ever-growing number of appreciative gastronomes?
I kindly chose the latter, but where to start?
Found on one of the small winding streets in Paphos old town and surrounded by recently renovated medieval, Ottoman and neoclassical buildings, this stunning house stands proudly, welcoming guests from all over the island and farther afield. It is described by its current custodians as, ‘a recently renovated traditional bourgeois townhouse, built in 1890”.
My party of two entered the renovated house at lunchtime and were instantly struck by a feeling of warmth and serenity. This building is a perfect mix of old Cyprus with contemporary architectural prowess, boasting clean lines and a simple, yet clever use of space.
We walk through one of the archways, which renowned Cypriot architect Costas Koutsoftides informs us was revealed during the revamp of the building. He helps out wife Yiola, when he can. She is well known in Cyprus, after working for many years at the Cyprus Tourism Organisation, and is responsible for creating the culinary creations that await.
The couple are far too modest about her natural talent, (she has never trained we are informed) and the food served is an elevated version of what she cooks at home.
We sit in the delightful courtyard garden surrounded by trees and stone walls, as the scent from the bushes of herbs which Yioula hand picks daily and uses in her cooking waft their delicate aromas invitingly.
This lovely building is also a boutique hotel and offers a small number of appealingly designed rooms.
Tables outside are well spaced, and a long wooden table is full of twenty somethings all happily chattering and enjoying the shade of the well-established trees, whilst tucking into Chez Mamma platters, salads and homemade drinks.
Cypriots, tourists and other residents are dotted around the remaining space.
Don’t arrive expecting a ‘high end’ service or you will be disappointed, and it wouldn’t befit the venue anyway. But service is efficient, friendly and well executed, and the staff are hugely likeable. There is a chilled out vibe to the entire experience here, and it’s best to go with the flow.
Chez Mamma serves serve brunch (weekends), lunch and dinner. Although there are set menus, Yioula will often concoct other versions of her dishes. She likes to interact with her customers and get feedback.
Drinks include fresh juices, all sorts of spirits – a gin and tonic is 6 euros – and cocktails. A margarita costs 6 euros, a cappuccino is 3.20 euros. Homemade juices are delicious, my favourite is levanda lemon at 4,00 euros and is also served in a jug if you ask. Wines are from local boutique wineries and of good quality, served both by the glass and bottle.
Brunch, which is served on Saturday and Sunday from 11am until 2.30pm, includes an energy plate at 6.50 euros with yogurt, oats, fresh fruit, energy seeds and honey and ‘Plates’ which are all served with vegetables, various breads and Cyprus herbs for 11.50 euros. They include a variety of Cyprus cheeses, turkey, lountza, bacon and eggs. Salmon bites are also available.
On the main menu, starters include fresh salads, platters and mains whose playful names include dancing chick dressed in carob honey on a layer of pougouri and garnished with sesame seeds, and lunatic shrimps on black homemade pasta. A ‘twisted’ moussaka, fillet steak and homemade pasta dishes all sound delicious too.
Dips and warm breads were brought to the table first, along with colourful patterned plates. Don’t be fooled by the laidback atmosphere, that is the aim of this wonderfully thought out concept, and every detail has been carefully considered.
Our main course choices of fresh ‘octopus on a cliff’ – served on a bed of wild rice and ‘joyful pork’, fine steaks served with wild rice, were served on good quality embossed white plates and simply melted in the mouth bursting with flavour.
Desserts consist of what is available in the kitchen at the time, but you won’t be disappointed. We tried a light unnamed desert that was served to us and included anari cheese, and a delicious Kataifi
There are regular live music evenings held here, check their Facebook page for details.
I’ve heaped well-deserved praise on the venue. Suffice it to say that I have already returned three times and the Chez Mamma platter – served with chicken, prawns, bread, cheeses, local cured meats and homemade marmalade – has become a regular favourite.
Good food in an enchanting space, away from the bustle of daily life, what more could you ask for?
Chez Mamma Bistro at Casa Mespilea, 3 Pygmalionos,
Paphos
Tel :99 683757
Facebook : www.facebook.com/CasaMespilea/
Open for lunch and dinner every day (Closed Tuesdays) 7pm-11pm
Weekend brunch: 11am – 2.30pm
