By Sarah Coyne
The area around the Town Hall is becoming something of a gastronomic centre for eating out in Paphos. Together with the renovated old town, the area offers some great new eateries and a chance to rediscover some old favourites. A few weeks ago one of the bars in this area relaunched as a new bistro. They have kept the old name from the wine bar and a new commercial kitchen has been installed – Labyrinth Bistro is now open for business.
At the helm of this new restaurant is the respected chef Nicos Charalambous who has been cooking for most of his professional life. He originally trained in Germany. He then worked in Italy and France before he Restaurant review: Labyrinth bistro, Paphosreturned to Cyprus in 1994 and opened his first Italian restaurant in Paphos. He brings to Labyrinth all his culinary and wine knowledge, creating something he feels is missing in Paphos. He wants to create “a place where you can feel relaxed but also educate yourself about wine while enjoying good food. I want people to come and try my selection of wine which is all available by the glass. We actually stock over 200 labels so the choice is vast. Our customers can enjoy a variety of wines and go away having enjoyed this experience”.
The restaurant is situated just off the municipal gardens. It is almost hidden from public view but the entrance is through a small pedestrian gate set in an old garden wall. Labyrinth Bistro is positioned in a colonial gem of a building dating from 1907. It looks tiny from the outside but the inside offers different secluded areas to eat in.
On the night we went the temperature was perfect for sitting on the spacious terrace. The bistro menu is varied and will certainly accommodate all dietary requirements. We were a party of three and decided to share our starters, selecting three of the seven on offer. It was difficult to choose as they were all very appealing. My favourite was the fried calamari with a sweet chilli dip. They were cooked to perfection and not at all greasy like others I have experienced. Another starter was a savoury version of the “Mille-feuille” dessert. This was cold and consisted of layers of grilled marinated aubergine with a creamy cheese sauce and balsamic vinaigrette – surprisingly tasty and enjoyed by all. The last dish was fried halloumi sticks served with a hint of paprika and a honey mustard dipping sauce, a gorgeous combination of flavours.
For mains our super healthy friend selected a quinoa salad served with grilled halloumi. This was served with a pomegranate and fresh mint dressing and was a very generous portion. She liked it very much and is a connoisseur when it comes to salads. Another main selected from the menu was the salmon burger which was served with avocado, sweet potato chips, coleslaw and wasabi horse radish. Anyone who enjoys salmon will enjoy this healthy burger priced at just €10. The final main was a “Sous Vide” lamb rump. This is a special French method of vacuum cooking. By cooking in a pouch or glass jar in water for a long period of time you are able to retain moisture and the meat should be evenly cooked throughout. The lamb with thyme was served with cous cous and a maratheftiko jus. Certainly the expert meat eater loved it, declaring it to be moist and succulent.
Sitting on the terrace with great food which is very reasonably priced and the choice of 200 wines by the glass, we were all sure the bistro has a very bright future in Paphos. With the healthy friend still at the table we didn’t dare try the desserts but there is a fine choice of five. If you don’t feel like a meal you can also select one of the platters on offer. During the following months the bistro will be hosting “pop up chef evenings”, wine classes and selected musical events.
VITAL STATISTICS
SPECIALTY European
WHERE Labyrinth Bistro, Agiou Theodorou 5, Paphos
WHEN Restaurant: 7-11pm Bar: 5pm-Midnight. Closed on Sunday
CONTACT 26 271224
HOW MUCH Mains €10 to €18
