Obviously an establishment for brave and handsome men, or so its name would suggest, and that’s not far off the target. Arriving on a Wednesday night, we are greeted by Demetris who showed us to a well-spaced table for two and went off to discover whether they had a bottle of Onoufrios that wasn’t chilled. The atmosphere in the rapidly filling restaurant was distinctly congenial and became more so by the minute.
The menu is simple, written in Greek and English, and displays all the traditional Cypriot dishes. Naturally it is led by the Leventis meze at €17 per person and then followed by the 22 items that make up the meze but served as separate dishes. We decided that we would order from the main list as the full meze looked too intimidating. Demetri returned with a room temperature bottle of Kathikas’ finest and took our order. The companion wanted a selection of starters including tahini, tzatziki and olives. These arrived with hot pitta and a plate of pickles, normally I would avoid the starters, but the tzatziki was the best I have ever tasted. We also ordered a salad for one which was enormous.
The first item on the menu was pork kebab and the last was squid, in between there was a choice of chicken, lamb, pork, liver from beef and lamb, different mushrooms, courgettes and spinach with eggs and many more. The companion was intrigued by ‘winy pork’. What could it be? Demetri informs us it is small pork ribs marinated for24 hours in red wine served with salad and fried potatoes; that will do nicely for madam the companion. I am always delighted to discover snails on offer and settled for them and the lamb’s liver. Our waiter suggested half portions on both dishes which proved to be excellent advice.
Leventis can accomodate 120 covers and by 8:30pm the staff were bringing out more tables and chairs that were set up on the pavement outside; the place was pulsating with happy diners inside and out. Next to us was a table for 25 containing some very statuesque young women gleefully celebrating a birthday. A family of 10 ranging from grandparents to infants happily engaged with a giant meze. I can’t recall the last time I saw so many contented trenchers, male and female.
The snails were just right, served in tomato and onion sauce, scalding hot. The pork was tender and had that slightly sour taste that typifies this dish; the companion was much taken with the chips that were handcut, blanched, deep fried and dressed with oregano; what a joy to find an establishment that takes such care over its products.
My liver was served in the traditional manner where the whole pluck is included; lung, spleen, liver and fat. The combination with a thick rich sauce is unbeatable; very few tavernas serve this dish. The Onoufrios was the perfect accompaniment and very favourably priced at €15.50. We were given two small traditional cakes to go with our coffees, which were on the house.
All in, a memorable evening; I cannot remember the last time we enjoyed a traditional meal so much. I formed the opinion that many of our fellow diners were regulars which was confirmed by Sofroniou, the very youthful owner, who has been on the site since 1980. While waiting to pay I watched him supervising the army of cooks, nothing escaped him.
Service, food and ambience were excellent. The Leventis opens six days for lunch and dinner except on Sunday and has a take-away service.
VITAL STATISTICS
SPECIALTY Cypriot cuisine.
WHERE Tagmatarchou Poliou, 4. Ayios Andreas, Nicosia
CONTACT 22 773201
PRICE Very reasonable
