By George Kassianos
What is happening in the beer world of Cyprus? Microbreweries are open in East and West, beer bars are brewing their own and matching beer and food is becoming a fashion among wine lovers too.
What is a microbrewery? They are small producers of beer that serve local or regional markets. To qualify as a microbrewery, the establishment must produce less than 15,000 barrels annually. Small local breweries are not a new idea. Before the days of refrigeration, most towns and villages had a brewery as beer could not be transported before it went bad. After refrigerated transport became possible, most local breweries closed down in favour of the larger, more consistent brewers.
William Ginn used to spend much of his time stuck in the car back in UK, a large portion of his week was spent driving. Now his commute to work has been reduced – his house in Tsada is not far from the brewery.
The family venture, the Aphrodite’s Rock Brewing Company, is the result of a passion for brewing that has lasted for decades on the part of the whole family. William’s daughter is a master brewer as well as his son in law. And he is one of the many beer lovers who have turned a hobby into a profession.
The biggest issue for the Ginn family was to decide where their brewery would be and getting planning permission for anything. They had to overcome a great many unnecessary bureaucratic obstacles for nearly three years before finally being permitted to brew in Cyprus. Many friends encouraged them, they fought hard and won.
William believes that the ability to produce unusual beers is one of the great strengths of microbreweries. “Brewing is a very traditional industry,” he says. “What is nice about microbreweries is that they’ve still got one eye on tradition and they respect it, but they are not afraid to experiment either. They are starting to create new and exciting beers, using different ingredients and processes, and mixing things up a bit.”
Of course, not every small brewery is producing fantastic beer. The quality varies massively but the best beers and the worst beers I have ever tasted have come from microbrewers. Some of these beers are as good as any kind of wine, and some are even getting into spirits territory – some of them could be a good substitute for a brandy or a single malt. And if you just fancy a decent pint, then there are lots that are just very good in that respect as well.
William believes that the popularity of microbreweries is part of a general increase of interest from local consumers in food and drink. “I think beer is left a few years behind things like cheese and wine,” he said, “but people are now starting to wake up and realise that you don’t just have to drink a tasteless mass-produced lager, and that there is actually some quality and variety out there.”
And taking heart from this beer and food philosophy, the Outside Inn was created, a wonderful setting outside the brewery for people to eat during the summer months served by the Brewpub Bar. There is a cozy indoor bar for winter and a beer garden when the sun smiles during winter. I recommend you try the Aphrodite’s Rock Tasting Experience, a paddle of five sample glasses of beer at a cost of €5.50. Then order the ale or lager you like with the restaurant’s Cod and chips platter. Pizza and burgers also feature on an extensive menu. The brewery tour is free to all customers Monday – Friday at 14:00 (tour times are subject to change without prior notice dependent on brewing schedule).
Aphrodite’s Rock Microbrewery produces five ales, four ciders and two lagers. We put the ales to the test as the two Lagers and Ciders will have a separate review.
Yorkshire Rose 3.8%
A ‘session bitter’ medium body brewed with selected English malts and hops. Hints of yeast and a breadiness that I can’t pinpoint, toasted toffee and caramel along with floral and spicy notes. The colour has a golden haze, the flavour hoppy without being so, starting as bready as and full bodied, ending in a bang of sorts with a bitter bite. A show stopper but not in a typical way, it’s not flashy or gimmicky. It’s just good. €1.80
Lian Shee 4.5%
An Irish, medium-body, red ale – it pours a clear, dark red, chestnut colour with 1/2 inch head. Taste is dark bread and caramel. Makes for a very drinkable, solid red ale. Very aromatic with tons of bready, toasted malt imparting notes of freshly baked bread or biscuits. There’s also notes of caramel, black pepper, heather and hints of piney, floral, hops. Lots of toasted malt up front in the mouth, biscuit-like and bready followed by lots of caramel-like sweetness, touches of black pepper and finishes with hints of floral, piney hops. Quite delicious! €2.10
ESB 5.0%
An Extra Special Bitter, this beer pours a clear, medium copper amber colour with two fingers of puffy, loosely foamy, and bubbly ecru head. It smells of bready caramel malt, a touch of wet biscuity toffee, earthy, herbal and leafy hops, a bit of somewhat sour orchard fruitiness, and a subtle metallic booziness. The taste is gritty, grainy caramel malt, musty stewed apple and pear, a slightly buttered breadiness, and leafy, weedy and mildly floral hops. The bubbles are quite light and mostly just playfully frothy, the body a sturdy medium weight, and generally smooth. It finishes off-dry, and more generically fruity, than straight-up malty in its sweetness. ESB after all is the cornerstone of the British pub tradition. €2.15
West Coast IPA 6.0%
One of the most popular beer styles on the market today. Brilliant deep amber colour with a lacy head. Aromas of honey roasted nuts, delicate spice, pine needle and kale follow through on a round, robust entry to a fruity-yet-dry medium-full body with dried fruits, kumquat marmalade on buttered cinnamon raisin toast notes. Finishes with a long, roasted root veggie and mossy earth-accented fade. My favorite of the lot! €2.30
London Porter 4.5%
This Porter is based on recipes from 18th century. There, we have the original aromas and flavours of the beer that made London the world’s brewing capital. Rich, deep brown with ruby highlights under a 1” light tan head that reduces to a thick film. Rich malt aromas with slight chocolate, no roast with a similar taste of rich, complex malt and chocolate, a little fruit, liquorice, spice and a slight sourness in the finish. Lingering dark malt tastes are not burnt or harsh and also not overly sweet or cloying. Finishes drier than you would expect. A very pleasant, drinkable porter. €2.10
Bottle sizes 500ml
