By Alexander McCowan
Prior to this visit my feelings about Marzano were mixed. I knew that the Larnaca branch was much admired by the thespian cousins, who attend there so regularly they have a discount card and a regular table, but when they took me there I thought the sauces in four different dishes all tasted the same.
However, there is clearly a more experienced hand on the stove in Nicosia. We arrived early on a Wednesday night to find only a tenth of the coverage occupied. Shown to a table for two by the very able Abraham, our man for the night, we tackled the extensive Marzano card. The theme is ‘Pasta, Pizza and Grill’ rather leading the customer to the idea that this might be an Italian establishment, but no; not a sign of Zampone con lenticche or Ossibuchi Milanese. But never mind, there are plenty of other delights too numerous to mention. The Antipasta alone contains twenty dishes: fungi, cheeses, crepes, ricotta, prosciutto, tenderloin thinly sliced and tiger prawns.
There are twelve salads including sea-foods, Caesars, with and without chicken, sun-dried items, roasted peppers and rocket. Very tempting is a Gorgonzola salad with pears, strawberries, avocados, caramelised walnuts, with a mixed berry dressing. As the tables begin to fill up one can observe that the humble burger is very popular. Made by Marios the chef from pure ground beef and served with the traditional bun and oven-baked potato wedges, the customers can choose a range of toppings and sauces; the caramelised onions are a clear favourite.
The grill items cover two pages of the menu offering Argentinean tenderloins, marinated chickens, bass, lamb cutlets salmon and pork fillets. The rest of the menu contains every kind of pasta known to man and, of course the ubiquitous pizzas. Time to choose. Madam, the companion, likes the look of the tiger prawns, and orders them as a starter between the two of us. From the main card I chose the lamb chops and she selected the tagliatelle with smoked salmon, asparagus, onions, cream, butter and dill; clearly not a weight-watchers choice. Next up, the wine list.
There is a fair selection of reasonably priced local brews, a good range of Italians, and some decent ‘New Worlders’; from this I selected an Argentinean Malbec; good drinking..
The prawns were an inspired choice: four tigers separated by crisp slices of garlic bread swimming in butter. They were perfectly cooked and just right for two. The lamb cutlets were served with a selection of roasted peppers, a sprout of broccoli, a huge decapitated grilled tomato and a cluster of new potatoes cooked in rosemary. While every effort was made to prepare an evening delight, the lamb was severely lacking in taste. It was as tender as one expects but failed to strike the nodes in the taste-buds that herald the arrival of the Kentish or Anglesey beast on the way to the stomach. Am I being too fussy; probably. The companion’s dish was well received.
Abraham leads us through the sweets on offer and we had a Banoffee pie and Crème Brule; both very pleasing and helped down with a scorching Espresso.
All in, a very pleasant night. By the time we left the covers are almost full and there will be a lot more revelers before closing time at mid-night.
The staff at Marzano, led by the ever watchful Andreas, combine to give the customer a very satisfactory dining experience. The premises are open from mid-day to mid-night. Before leaving Andreas informed me of their week-day lunch menu which offers a main meal, a soft drink and a sweet for €9.90, plus €2 for a starter, with a slightly more expensive version that includes a glass of wine: can’t be bad. Excellent value.
Vital Statistics
Specialty: Italian
Where: 27 Diagorou, Nicosia. Opp. TGI Friday
Contact: 22-663240
Price: Mid-range
