By Alexander McCowan
After a tour of the airless corridors of Ledra and Onasagorou the companion suggested we stay within the walls and move eastward. Good idea. We settled in the wide open space of Da Paolo: the oldest Italian in the city. Dining is done al-fresco among comfortably spaced tables covered in that badge of the bistro, the red and white check tablecloth.
There was an impressive spread of couples intimately conversing under the low level lighting with the staff skittering between kitchen – located across the road – and diners.
We are shown to a table located on the historic walls and under a tree; there is an ambiance of jollyness, people are enjoying themselves.
The companion expresses surprise that we haven’t reviewed this place before and she is right. The staff is multinational: Italians in the kitchen, Romanians on the tables and Cypriots on the till.
There are ten items on the anti-pasta and seven salads, but as the main course list includes salad with the dish we select an interesting ‘melenzane vegetariane’: thinly sliced aubergines with tomatoes, herbs, fresh cream and mozzarella cooked and served in a cocotte – they also produce this dish with meat. I was drawn to the ‘calamari fritti’ that was described as ‘new’ on the menu which I loftily assumed was a solecism for fresh, which proved to be partly correct: ‘fresh in today’ said Emil the attentive waiter, and ‘ yes, it’s new on the menu’; so there! The dish consists of tiny squid, sliced and fried in a very light batter and served with a freshly made tartar sauce. Both dishes were served hot and were most enjoyable.
The companion thought a chilled Frascatti would be appropriate, and she, as always, was correct.
There is a traditional selection of pastas but we passed to the main course section that is heavily slanted towards pork and chicken; sadly no veal or fish. From the many Pollo’s and scaloppine’s the companion chose a chicken fillet with artichokes, mushrooms and capers, in a white wine and lemon sauce served with fried potatoes and salad; she decided I should eat the pork chop marinated in olive oil and vinegar, onions and spices (herbs), with potatoes of choice and salad.
The service in this place is spot on, and just tottering on the edge of the familiar, but not falling over. The portions reflect the owner’s knowledge of his countrymen: they are enormous. My chop was served on a platter that could barely contain it, but it was delicious. The companion’s serving suffered from the same affliction: it was a complete breast of chicken, perfectly cooked, but beyond the capacity of the delicate diner.
It is not surprising that Da Paolo is a regular venue for the battalions of gourmands inhabiting the city.
Although we couldn’t finish the main courses, we were keen on the sweet menu that contained an un-encountered dish: Pizza al Cioccolata that claims to be a ‘unique recipe of soft cheese, chocolate, hazel nuts, fresh fruits and a covered in homemade raspberry sauce’; however, when the accommodating Emil informed us it is the same size as a standard pizza, we declined, and settled for the chocolate soufflé with vanilla ice cream; good choice, more than enough for two.
The establishment does a vast range of pizzas, and encourages the customers to make their own by selecting from a list of thirty different ingredients that will supplement the existing pizzas which they can witness being made by chef Marco across the road.
The wine list is generous and sensibly priced, with a half litre of Italian house wine on offer for €11.
The management is low level but attentive; Marios the manager, quietly oversees the service, and greets his regulars and makes his newcomers welcome.
Overall: a very good evening. Easy parking, pleasant ambience – no loud music or television – good food and service.
VITAL STATISTICS
SPECIALTY Italian
WHERE 52 Constantinou Paleologou, inside the walls, Nicosia
CONTACT 22 438538. 100 covers, but booking advisable.
COST Reasonable
