By Alexander McCowan
One owes so much to friends when it comes to finding something new and interesting to review. ‘Try DOT,’ said my friend Mark. He has been patronising it at weekends when brunching with his lady friends.
D.O.T. is situated inside the walls, opposite Bastione and next to Theatro Ena. This area around Famagusta Gate has risen Phoenix-like from the detritus and wasteland that blighted the Chrysaliniottisa enclave since the invasion. Previously the commercial heartland of the old city, it rapidly became the refuge of an ever ageing unappreciated craft group that had educated their children out of their wits and who would never soil their hands on father’s trade. Extinction follows.
But in a year, this part of the city will be unrecognisable; the municipality is restoring the roads, residences, and shop facias at a staggering pace hardly ever associated with our countrymen, and as a result young entrepreneurs are investing in new businesses. Among these are Polyvious and his partner Komnimos – the master of the kitchen – who have taken over a former carpentry shop on the corner of Athena St.
Tables are inside and out, while a smart use of period furniture creates a warm welcoming ambience. The companion and I arrive around eight and there are small gatherings meeting up before deciding to go inside or al fresco. We are given a table by the bar and greeted by the charming Dina from Greece.
No rush. Simple menus; card on pegboard; good idea. The house-wine is provided by Zambartas, a local winery, along with Petritis, that produces excellent value for money. We decided on a glass of the white – while perusing the card – which persuaded us to stay with a bottle for the rest of the night.
There are five salads on offer that look interesting and five appetisers, burgers, and pasta and rice dishes, from these we agree to share a fresh octopus marinated in olive and wine vinegar and fruits. Be warned the portions err on the Cypriot side. The octopus is a rip-snorter, couldn’t be better, it is served with a small pan of fresh bread of a kind not experienced before and two tiny crystal pots of appetisers; very nice touch.
Passing over the burgers that look as though they will appeal to the burger brigade, we alight on the pastas; a salmon ravioli topped with lemon cream and avocado is tempting but I settle for the inky tagliatelle, prawns, courgette, cherry tomatoes in a spicy sauce; just what I fancy. Madame, the Italian, has seen the tiger prawns languishing at the foot of the meat and fish section, and wished to explore them. No-one has tried to force the unwanted water on us; most unusual.
All seems well; the dishes arrive, steaming hot, and amazingly, we are given a finger-bowl with lemon and extra napkins; never happened before: it’s the little things that impress. The pasta is just on the cusp of al-dente but there is far too much, otherwise all is well. The tiger prawns seem bigger than usual – maybe it’s an ageing thing, like young policemen – and ooze garlic; they are served with paprika, polenta and a green salad with a surprisingly sharp dressing.
The companion was very happy with the prawns and is now scrutinising the sweet menu that contains a Mille-feuille with strawberries and caramelised oat flakes made on the premises and, without doubt, the obvious choice: there is enough for four and it is delicious; I didn’t want a sweet but it was irresistible.
It is now 9:30 on a Wednesday evening and the place is packed.
This will prove to be a perfect venue for those attending Pharos evenings, craft-centre shows, Theatricals, Gate exhibitions, Merlina nights, or just seeking a very pleasant culinary evening. We live five minutes away and will definitely return. First rate food, excellent service, intriguing ambience; what more could you want?
VITAL STATISTICS
SPECIALTY: Mediterranean and International Cuisine
WHERE: D.O.T. 6, Athenas Street, Nicosia, opposite Merlina Mercuri Hall
CONTACT 22 101228
PRICE Reasonable
