It’s all happening in Ayia Napa

What was once a debauch seaside resort has grown up, offering a different type of culture. A three-day festival this weekend aims to celebrate that says ALIX NORMAN

Many of us who’ve lived on the island for more than 20 years have a love hate relationship with Ayia Napa. It’s hard not to adore a place where every teenage fantasy could be made real – the dancing! the drinking! the debauchery! But it’s hard not to dislike it for the same reasons. My forays to Ayia Napa in its hey day were few and far between and it was with great glee in the 2000s I learnt the town had become a bit more family friendly. There’s still a good time to be had in Napa but it has grown up.

The upcoming Ayia Napa Festival is proof positive that the area has a great deal more on offer than its pubs and clubs. The festival has been running for 29 years and of late has blossomed into a celebration of everything that is great about the town and its surrounds. Running from September 27 to 29, it’s three days of cultural events, exhibitions, music and dance, and children’s’ activities, designed to coincide with World Tourism Day. And while this may not be what I once expected from the town that rivalled Ibiza in the decadence stakes, it’s a very welcome change.

Held in Seferis Square, around the historical monastery in the town centre, the events are designed to reflect the historical, cultural and agricultural traditions of the area. Opening at 7.30pm on Friday, there’s a concert from the Philharmonic Band of the Cyprus Police Force, a performance from the Ayia Napa Municipal Dancing Group, a presentation of dance and music with the Greek Singers and Panayiotis Lazelas, a showcase of traditional Armenian dancing and a piece by the Orfeas Dancing Group. All this, and fireworks!

The following two days are similarly packed; visitors can choose from performances by the Aglangia Municipal Choir, concerts featuring a number of famous Greek singers, tributes to Mikis Theodorakis and more folk dancing than you can shake a stick (or leg, or bell) at. The district has also kindly catered for the young – and young at heart – with a Karagiozis Corner: each evening between 7.30 and 8pm, Christodoulos Pafios will work his shadow puppet magic, with three performances in this traditional – and much loved – art form.

And there’s more… Those whose interests lie in the traditions of the past should note that the Cyprus Traditional Farmhouse (Agrotospito), situated close by the central monastery, will be open for the duration of the festival. Decorated in a traditional manner, the Farmhouse is set up as an exhibition place of all the equipment, furniture and agricultural implements of the past, and the garden will play host to the relevant time-honoured rural activities: the making of zivania, halloumi, lounza, bread and sweets. Accompanying the culinary demonstrations there’s an exhibition of traditional crafts, everything from woodworking to silkmaking, basket weaving to pottery, and this comprehensive reconstruction of the island’s rural past will no doubt be an education for both locals and visitors alike.

Finally, in conjunction with the festival, there are a total of 17 different exhibitions, housed in various locations. There are art exhibitions, displays of sculpture, exhibitions of glassware and ceramics, displays of maps and engravings, art and craft shows and even a presentation from the Forestry Department on the Flora, Fauna and Environment of Cyprus. While all this cultural excess is a far cry from the Ayia Napa I once knew it is, I must admit, far more interesting. Ayia Napa really has grown up. Or maybe it’s just me.

29th Ayia Napa Festival
September 27 to 29. Attendance to all events and activities is free of charge. For further details, call 23816300 or visit the Municipality website at www.agianapa.org.cy