In a few hours I will be heading to Sofia for a week of eating rich Bulgarian cuisine – that includes oven baked lamb, steamed pork and rich stews.
Yes, this trip means I will be in direct contravention of my self-imposed diet and fitness regime, which has made my existence a misery since the start of this year.
I’m told that one has to live a little, and of late, my life has become more pure than a very good monk – running daily, no smoking, hardly any scotch, no chocolate…
That said, my father phoned last night to say the national dish of Bulgaria is tripe – can this be true?
A week of tripe hardly sounds like a walk on the wild side – but Bulgarian alcoholic drinks such as rakia, mastika and menta are of some interest. I’ll keep you posted on developments.
Anyway, before departure it was back to Ayia Napa for a few hours of seafood bliss and as locals will know, clustered around the small, picturesque harbour are a handful of delightful fish taverns, all doing brisk, year-round business for the local and tourist trade.
The quayside is home to the Marcos Fish Taverna, which, at the more affordable end of the spectrum, boasts a history and reputation for pleasant dining in relaxed and welcoming surrounds.
I like it here – there is nothing lovelier on a sunny afternoon than to sit at one of the outdoor terrace tables and bask in the warm winter sun, watching the world go by. The tavern’s location is fantastic – looking out onto the Mediterranean Sea, offering spectacular views.
It’s the location that really clinches the wow factor – it can be especially lively on summer evenings.
It is a pretty big restaurant and is serviced by a small army of waiters serving during the peak months, as both the inside and terrace can remain packed from lunchtime till late at night.
The menu features an entire seafood spectrum from live Lobster Thermidor (at €35 a kilo, pre-order is essential) to locally caught sardines. There is a selection of fresh fish which you can have prepared any way you like – grilled, boiled, steamed, poached, sautéed, pan fried or deep fried. There are also a few meat and steak dishes.
For starters the traditional Cypriot village salad for two is scrumptious (€6.50).
For mains, I decided to forgo my initial desire for one of the famous fish mezes – as it is strictly prepared for two people at €22.50 each – that includes an endless stream of fish arriving at quick pace – there is salmon, mussels, whitebait, cuttle fish, sword fish, sea bream, tuna, crab, prawns and kalamari – served with salads, rice and tahini. The menu states 23 dishes in all.
Anyhow, I moved on to my main dish – a beautifully presented Halibut, a fish which rarely appears on local menus, probably because it’s a native Atlantic dish. The Halibut was served ‘Normandie’ style, which is with a richly flavoured creamy white sauce and prawns (€14.50).
Two things became clear to me from this meal: first, that it’s true – the south east, in particular Ayia Napa, is the best place to find seafood done well; second that seafood is at its best when it’s served simply.
Next came the coffee, I decided to skip dessert in anticipation of the tripe tomorrow.
Give Marcos a try, but wait for a sunny day or warm evening, as this restaurant is best appreciated when out on the terrace.
There is a car park behind the restaurant, but if you are on foot it’s only a ten minute walk from the main Ayia Napa square.
VITAL STATISTICS
SPECIALITY Fish
WHERE Marcos Fish Tavern, Ayia Napa
CONTACT 23 721877, 99 684609
PRICE Fish meze €22.50 per head
