You cannot help but compare Lebanese winemaking history with that of Cyprus. Lebanon has a troubled modern history and has become almost synonymous with conflict. Just like Cyprus, it is also thought to be one of the oldest sites of wine production in the world, wines having been exported from the region to Egypt in the 3rd millennium BC. The Phoenicians, famous sailors and avid merchants, considered wine to be not only an important element of religious ceremony but also a valuable product. Bacchus, the Roman god of wine, may well have his origins in the wine rituals of Canaan.
Ask wine connoisseurs around the world what they know about Lebanon and almost all will say Chateau Musar, one of the three main Lebanese winemakers and the most famous in the West. Chateau Musar was founded in 1930 by Gaston Hochar, and since 1959 it has been run by his two sons, Serge and Ronald. Hochar, son of a wealthy Lebanese banking family, developed an enthusiasm for wine while in France in the late 1920s and set up his winery as a hobby in the cellars of the 17th Century castle of Mzar in Ghazir. Serge completed his wine education in Bordeaux and bottled his first Musar in 1959. He is now in control of the winery’s vineyards and cellar while Roland manages the business side.
Chateau Musar cultivates grapes in Bekaa, at 1,000 metres, where the cool nights lengthen the crucial ripening process. The grapes are then transported to Ghazir in the hills north of Beirut for production.
This location, in a region that for many years was ravaged by civil war, placed demands on the Hochar family that most winemakers, fortunately, do not experience. The vineyards were remarkably close to the frontline. Battle raged around the vines throughout the 1983 harvest, and Serge Hochar had to be smuggled in by small boat to make the wine. In 1984, the overland route from Bekaa to Ghazir was blocked by fighting, grapes had to be transported instead west to the Mediterranean, then via boat to Jounieh, north of Beirut, and overland from there to the hills of Ghazir. This convoluted journey was completed successfully, but by the time the grapes reached the presses, five days late, they were spoiled so Hochar, showing typical Lebanese resourcefulness, produced Madeira instead. This was the first and only vintage missed. Similar wartime conditions were endured in 1988 and 1989 and during the latter year both the Hochar family home and the Chateau Musar, winery suffered direct hits from shelling. For a short while the wine cellars served a dual purpose, as they made excellent bomb shelters for the local people.
Serge Hochar has created a legend in Chateau Musar with some truly fascinating wines. The white wine is an oddity made from the indigenous Obaideh and Merwah grapes and aged for six months in oak. Unfortunately, not a lot of this is produced; typically 600 or so cases and the vintage available in Cyprus is the 2003.
The grand vin here is the red Chateau Musar, a blend which may include Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault, Carignan, Grenache and Mourvèdre. The wine is fermented in concrete before spending one year in a vat and then a year in oak barrels, before going back to the vat for several years. Hochar believes his wines need years – perhaps ten – before they are ready for drinking and the wines are already some way towards this age when they are released on to the market.
La Maison du Vin started importing Chateau Musar this year. The flagship is 2001 Chateau Musar, Gaston Hochar, Bekaa Valley Lebanon, abv 13.5% (€26), the latest release which has been seven years in the making. It has a deep red colour with a bricking rim. Approximately a third each of Cabernet, Cinsault and Carignan, this has an appealing and expressive “southern nose” with a pronounced edge, it is only a touch volatile, otherwise remarkably clean. It is rich and ripe with complex aromas of spicy red fruits, plum, cherries, blackcurrants and damsons along with liquorice and cedar, the nose is meaty and savoury. Full-bodied, the palate shows generous black and red fruit flavours and hints of cake spice while the texture is soft and the finish long. With firm tannins and a spicy alcoholic finish, it is complex and elegant. It will develop for a further 10 years. A great wine to match with stews or casseroles and a fine partner of roast haunch of venison.
2002 Chateau Musar Hochar Père et Fils, Bekaa Valley, abv 13.5% (€15.50). This is a younger wine than the Chateau Musar, produced with the same philosophy. The mix of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan with a dominance of Cinsault and a hint of Grenache is aged for six to nine months in oak vats and kept for two years cellaring prior to bottling. Intense burgundy in colour, the nose is full of ripe juicy black and red fruits, but especially lovely smoky plums with Christmas cake spices, oak and figs. The palate is full-bodied and abundant with plums, cherries, blackcurrants and damsons balanced with good acidity and fine tannins. Complex and well integrated oak – long, lingering finish. Match this wine with beef, steak, game, burgers, lamb, meat casseroles, generally hearty food and probably this is the best wine to drink with Lebanese food.
Chateau Musar’s new Jeune wines were created from the fruit of relatively youthful Bekaa Valley vineyards. The 2008 Musar Jeune Blanc, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon, abv 11.5% (€10.50) from Viognier, Vermentino and Chardonnay is a dry medium white with a pale lime colour. Initially the nose is a bit closed, minerally citrus, peach and floral nose with hints of cherry seed, then cinnamon, some almonds. There is great energy with citrus dominating the palate and with a good balance with acidity, oily texture followed by a medium citrusy and nutty finish. This is a new and young style and is very good with seafood and Lebanese vegetable dishes as well as fish and chicken recipes of the region.
2008 Musar Jeune Rosé, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon, abv 12.5% (€10.50) This is a bold, flavoursome dry wine reminiscent of a top-class Provençal rosé. A pink, coppery hued wine, it is made with the free run juice of Cinsault grapes. On the nose it is pure and un-oaked with intense aromas of ripe raspberries, red apples, red currant, peach fruit and toasted almonds. These flavours follow through on to the smooth, rounded palate, which is savouring and refreshing and is perfect with chicken or prawn à la Provençal or grilled fish. This is a red wine lovers rosé.
2008 Musar Jeune Rouge, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon, abv 13.5% (€10.50) This blend of Cinsault, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon was left un-oaked to allow full expression of vibrant fruit characters and the unique Lebanese terroir. Brilliant ruby colour with intensely aromatic spice and herbs, like cumin and parsley, dried earth, violets some plums, prunes and cherries. Vivid, mouthfilling flavours of cassis, raspberry and fresh cherry, the prunes and plums are dancing around, a touch of raisins at the back and gamey notes. Medium bodied and dry with some chewy tannins. Good length too with a final burst of cherries, serve this wine with grills.
Chateau Musar is imported and distributed by La Maison du Vin, Tel: 25 736220 or 22 442235
