The state of the nation

This year’s Cyprus Wine Competition attracted 163 entries from 35 wineries, setting a new record and results were extremely pleasing with wines receiving gold medals as well as silver, no place for bronze. When it comes to the top end of the local market, overall quality is concentrated at a higher level than ever before. The learning curve for the local wine industry in the modern era has been exponential and, while improvement gains were initially slow, these are now starting to happen faster and faster.

The transformation of an industry is a dynamic and complex process and it would be far-fetched to say Best Wine competitions have been the sole agents of change, but it can be argued to have played a pivotal role, not least in attracting high calibre international judges to participate. The presence of tasters from abroad plays a vital role in avoiding any parochialism that might occur were the panels to be made up entirely of locals. On another level, having international figures with a strong reputation in the international wine industry with an increased understanding of what Cyprus has to offer can only be good in terms of attracting foreign investment and most importantly facilitating the export drive.

There were two Grand Gold medals, 17 Gold and 29 Silver. The diversity of classes was also impressive, medals were given to Xinisteri, Petritis, Moschato, Riesling, Chardonnay but even more impressive were the reds Maratheftiko, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mourvèdre, Opthalmo, Merlot, Grenache and Mavro. The overall standard of the reds, especially the Shiraz and Cabernets, was higher than expected. I can’t wait for next year.

WINES OF THE WEEK

Stroumbeli – stock up for winter

Alexy Machuca is chief winemaker of Kamanterena, the Paphos winery of SODAP in Stroumbi. Originally from Venezuela, he oversees the production of at least four million bottles, not an easy job. Around 10,000 families deliver their grapes exclusively to SODAP co-operative, probably the largest winery.

2007 Stroumbeli Merlot Noir, Kamanterena Winery, Pafos Regional, abv 12.5%

The appearance of this wine shows a Merlot that still has a deep ruby red colour with intensity and crimson accents. This wine spent some time in French oak. The aromas are complex and layered with black plum, dark cherry and currants followed by vanilla, cloves and peppercorns with some sweet notes of the oak. On the palate, it is round and full-bodied with vibrant, dark cherry fruit, sweet herbs and silky mouth-feel. Very supple and elegant, the finely knit tannins highlight bold fruit and sweet tobacco notes giving a velvety finish. Can keep for four to six years more and enjoy with Shepherd’s pie, steak or beef au jus, with BBQ duck or chops – pork and lamb. €10

2006 Stroumbeli Shiraz, Kamanterena Winery, Pafos Regional, abv 13.5%

Opaque crimson, mauve colour, the nose is enormous and heralds the palate and aftertaste. Strong aroma of spice, black pepper and then fruit as in blackberry, concentrated plum and dark cherry, some spicy oak and liquorice which fill the head with a wonderful aroma of Shiraz. The palate is full of black pepper, blackberry and spice flavours. Fine grained tannins, a good balance, followed by a long aftertaste of blackberries, black pepper and spice. A good Shiraz that can age and best consumed with prime fillet – beef, lamb, pork while cooking the BBQ with friends. €10

2006 Stroumbeli Maratheftiko, Kamanterena Winery, Pafos Regional, abv 12.5%

The age shows, positively… the wine is ready to be enjoyed now. The colour is perhaps a trifle lighter than its heyday, but still the ruby is shining. The nose cleans up after 30 minutes, and becomes harmonised and enticing, with a soft blackberry fruit, sour cherry, pepper and spice as well as herbal notes follow along with earthy notes of forest floor. Smooth and silky complexity on the palate, it has a good grip and structure, dry and medium bodied with a long, dry, prunes aftertaste. Enjoy with red meats, flavourful and heartier pastas, lamb and strong flavoured cheese. €10

Kamanterena Winery 25 564605

Tsangarides summer coolers

Angelos Tsangarides is smitten by the surrounding vineyard’s terroir. He recently confessed he plans to release single vineyard wines of Xinisteri and Maratheftiko. This is a man on a mission; he still listens to the advice of his forebears. “Our grandfathers knew exactly where climate, soil and grape variety matched better,” claims Tsangarides. And it is quite true, the world’s greatest vineyards are based on this assumption.

2009 Tsangarides Winery Xinisteri, Pafos Regional, abv 12.5%

A 100% Xinisteri sourced exclusively from Lemona and Letymbou village region. Pale yellow hue with highlights of green, the wine displays some ripe white fruit, especially pear and melon, and intense flavours of tangy limes, passion fruit threaded with some mineral notes. The expected grassy aromas are there. Finely textured palate, it has a hint of richness like butter cream with wonderful flavours of citrus especially grapefruit, yellow apple and grass, the freshness still maintained by delicious acidity. Appealing sappy mouthfeel that leads to an aftertaste that cuts a bit bitter and abrupt. Enjoy with summer green salads, grilled poultry dishes, pastas al fresco and pork fillet with cream sauce. €5.75

2009 Tsangarides Winery Chardonnay, Pafos Regional, abv 13%

Very difficult to get this wine unless you have adopted a vine, a successful scheme by Tsangarides winery where a vine bears your name and all you have to do is to buy a case. Well it worked as there is almost none left in the winery.

Clean and greenish yellow in colour, slow to open with aromas and flavours hidden for at least ten minutes. It opens to reveal green melon, jasmine, pear and ripe peach, citrus blossoms and generous summer and tropical fruits on a background of lively acidity. In the background, notes of green apples, citrus, hazelnuts, nutmeg and raisins. Medium-bodied, concentrated and intense but lacking vibrancy. On the finish an appealing hit of green apples. Drink now especially with grilled chicken and green salad. €11.15

2009 Tsangarides Winery Shiraz Rosé, Pafos Regional, abv 13%

Free run Shiraz with minimal skin contact has given Tsangarides’ rosé a beautiful, bright red pink colour that shines in the glass. The nose displays some vibrant cherry and strawberry aromas with some toffee and spice. The earthy Shiraz characters are evident on the palate with juicy red fruits, soft texture and a fresh and savoury lingering finish. Enjoy in its youthfulness with barbecued chicken, chicken picata, pork chop or pork kebab, stuffed vegetables or baked fish. €5.75

Tsangarides winery 26 722277