IT’S A little known fact that there at least 50 species of edible mushrooms growing in Cyprus. Unfortunately, there are a similar number of toxic ones.
But help is at hand for the growing numbers of enthusiastic mushroom-pickers who seek to sort the mycological wheat from the chaff in the form of the Cyprus Mycological Association (CMA).
The CMA – established in 2007 – last week launched a series of educational leaflets on many of the estimated 2,000-plus species of wild mushrooms found here, including a list of do’s and don’ts of mushroom picking.
Top of their list is the correct way to pick wild mushrooms, and they’ve waged war against the growing practice of using agricultural tools to pick mushrooms which damages the forest floor and other ecosystems.
Instead, the CMA in its newsletter, The Mycologist invites pickers to “enjoy nature and mushrooms based on the principles of sustainability and respect for the environment. Carefully pick only those ripe mushrooms which you know are edible, and don’t destroy what’s left. Politely advise our fellow-citizens who insist on using tools. Set an example for others to follow.”
CMA President Thomas Kyriacou said at last week’s press-launch that Cyprus’ climate and geographical location provides it with a unique jigsaw-puzzle of different habitats and biodiversity. At lower levels the landscape is typically Mediterranean, but it varies in flora and tree species with each step up towards the Troodos mountain-range, which peaks at almost 2,000 metres. This biodiversity explains the wide range of mushrooms that grow here, including 140 species which are native to the island.
In contrast to other European countries that are rich in mushrooms, Cypriot mushroom-pickers tend to favour just a handful of edible species (see sidebar), mainly due to the lack of accurate documented knowledge that can be referred to by anyone interested.
According to CMA Secretary Michalis Loizides, the CMA is the first organisation to take on the task of systematically studying and cataloguing the 2,000-plus species thought to grow here, compared to the 5,000 or so found across Europe. So far the CMA has catalogued some 500 species, of which 50-70 are edible, a similar number toxic, and 10 or so are deadly. The first three educational leaflets feature 44 of the most commonly occurring species of all types.
A typical “mushrooming year” starts in mid- or late-September at the top of Troodos, and many species can be picked at lower levels throughout the winter. The springtime species start to appear in February, and carry on growing at higher levels up to April. On rare occasions, species which thrive in high temperatures can grow sporadically on the Troodos peaks during the summer months, following heavy rain.
Of course, special care must be taken to avoid harmful mushrooms. Loizides said that the toxic mushrooms which grow in Cyprus cause symptoms that range from gastric discomfort to death. The deadly mushrooms recorded so far cause serious damage to the liver and kidneys, and although eating them does not always result in death, some can kill within minutes.
Loizides explained that there are several myths surrounding toxic mushrooms, due to patchy knowledge that is often inaccurate. Therefore, the safest way to gather wild mushrooms is to pick only those that are completely familiar – both through experience and reference to books.
He added that beginners should not go out picking before learning the basics, and should always be accompanied by an experienced mushroom-gatherer whose judgement can be trusted absolutely. “The basic rule is: if you’re not absolutely sure, leave it,” he said.
The CMA is happy to provide any information relating to wild mushrooms, and offers a list of recommended books for both reference and cooking recipes. Board members are also willing to help identify any unfamiliar specimens, provided these are freshly picked, kept separately in paper bags, and passed on to them with as much information as possible regarding where they were picked, the type of trees or vegetation in the immediate area, etc.
Kyriacou told the Sunday Mail that the CMA is putting together a mushroom-picker’s guidebook, which will most likely contain 150-200 species, both edible and toxic. The aim is to publish the guidebook before the start of the picking season next year.
n It only costs €15 to join the CMA, and currently the annual subscription is €25. Children aged 12-18 pay half the normal subscription. Activities for the current year include two mushroom-picking trips and a lecture by visiting Greek mushroom expert Yiorgos Constantinidi in November, and there are plans to attend the All-Greece Mushroom Festival in August 2010. Contact: 25318657, email: [email protected]
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What’s good to eat?
The most commonly-picked mushroom in Cyprus – though not the tastiest – is the “kokkinomanitaro” (Lactarius deliciosus), known as the Red Pine Mushroom or Saffron Milk-cap in English. It grows in pine forest throughout the autumn and winter.
Other popular ones are the “gematas” (Lactarius sanguifluus) or Bloody Milk-cap, which is found in early autumn in pine forest, and the lesser-quality “aspromanitaro” (Russula delica) or Milk-white Brittlegill, found in all types of forest during high temperatures in early autumn.
More sought after, and recognised by its fragrant, spicy smell is the “imero” (Tricholoma caligatum) or European matsutake. This species is rare in the rest of Europe but reasonably common in Cyprus, appearing in late autumn and winter among both conifers and broadleaf trees.
Of the mushrooms that are most highly prized across Europe, the Yellow Morel (Morchella esculenta) and Black Morel (Morchella elata) – the name “arnaoui” is used for both – can be found regularly in Cyprus in deciduous forests, appearing in the spring. Others like the Chanterelle (Cantharellus cibarius) and Trompette de Mort (Craterellus cornucopioides) can also be found, but are as elusive as anywhere else in Europe.
Ceps or Porcini (Boletus edulis) do occur, but not every year, as they require a particular combination of the right temperature and rain early in the summer. Another favourite across Europe, the Summer Cep (Boletus reticulates) has been found just once in Cyprus.
Although still rare, more commonly found versions of boletus mushrooms are the Yellow Cracked Boletus (Boletus subtomentosus) and Red Cracked Boletus (Boletus chrysenteron), which are both edible, and the Purple Boletus (Boletus rhodoxanthus), which is toxic.
Very few of Cyprus’ edible species of mushroom are picked, mainly due to patchy knowledge that is often inaccurate. For instance, the “lartias” (Suillus luteus) or Slippery Jack is often regarded by Cypriots as being deadly, but once the shiny skin is removed from the cap, it can be turned into a delicious soup or sauce, or pickled.
