Volcanic grapes
Wonderful wines from the island of Santorini
It might come as a surprise to many that Santorini’s ancient vine-growing tradition is still vibrant and the island is worthy of its accolade as the most important wine-producing island of the Cyclades, if not of the whole of Greece.
Santorini has a unique environment for viticulture, perhaps the most unique wine region in the world. A volcanic island, it suffered a catastrophic eruption around 1500BC, leaving a huge, submerged caldera where the centre of the island had been. Its resulting geological features are not only singular in Greece – chalk and shale beneath ash, lava and pumice – but also contribute to the kind of stress that compels vines to produce extraordinary fruit. Grapes grow on the eastern slope of the caldera’s edge, which begin from their sharp western edge at around 330 meters, ending at sea level at the island’s famous black beaches. Further stress results from the dearth of water on the island. There is little rain on Santorini during the year – with the exception of the winter and there is none at all during the growing season.
Steady northerly winds, the so-called meltemia, preclude condensation on grapes themselves, resulting in the parallel development of high sugars and acid levels. The wind being so relentless as to threaten the survival of youthful vines, an ancient though hardly simple solution is now a famous tradition on the island. Many vines are trained to grow in a crown, a round basket in the middle of which provides a haven for hanging clusters of grapes.
Santorini is home to an extraordinary white cultivar, the Asyrtiko, often described as Greece’s best white wine grape. It ripens to high sugar – and therefore alcohol – levels with a high level of acidity intact. To round out its somewhat sparse fruit and to compensate for a certain lack of aroma, it is traditionally blended with the flowery Aidani Aspro and more replete Athiri. The red cultivars Mandilaria and Mavrotr?gano are playing an increasing important role in premium wine production.
Santorini is home to several wine genres. Brusco is the traditional wine of Santorini; its name comes from the Venetians who ruled the island from the 13th to the 16th century. The name Brusco refers more to a general characteristic rather than a particular wine. It can be white made from the Asyrtiko grape, red made with Mandilaria or by mixing both, in which case we have a ros? wine. It is a strong wine containing 16 to 17 per cent alcohol. This is achieved by allowing the grapes to ferment in their own skin for a long period of time.
Nykteri is another local wine; it takes its name from the Greek word meaning ‘night work’ denoting a procedure in which the processing of the grapes from the vineyard to the fermenter occurs entirely in one day, culminating late at night. The harvesting of grapes near or before dawn results to superior must, Asyrtiko is the traditional varietal basis for this style.
Vinsanto is one of the finest sweet wines from anywhere in the world. Its name is taken from the Italian Vino Santo, meaning the wine of the Holly Communion. Despite its Italian name, this red wine was produced on the island long before the Venetians stepped in. The clusters of grapes are left intact, spread in the sun to dry. As the humidity reduces the sugar increases, giving a rich dessert wine. Vinsanto is prepared by mixing Asyrtiko and Aidani grapes. Mezzo is a less sweet version made from a combination of raisined and un-raisined grapes or from grapes that have undergone less sun-drying.
WINES OF THE WEEK
2008 Nykteri, Santo Wines, VQPRD Appellation of Origin Santorini of High Quality, abv 14%
This is a blend of Asyrtiko, Athiri and Aidani. The colour is crystal clear and yellowish. On the nose, a floral delicacy, a blend of jasmine and citrus fruit blossoms with a hint of pear, white peach and Santorini’s minerality. Full-bodied, dry, almost oily, well structured, the alcohol is felt in the mouth, but the wine is generous in taste with notes of ripe fruit, and even though it is a touch low in acidity, it is still fresh with a long aftertaste. Matches traditional appetizers, grilled chicken with light white wine sauce perfectly. €12.50
2008 Asyrtiko, Santo Wines, VQPRD Appellation of Origin Santorini of High Quality, abv 13%
This is a wine from the Asyrtiko varietal undergoing a classic white wine vinification in a tank. Shiny and yellowish in colour, it makes a unique statement with is varietal aromatic character which embraces white flowers and citrus fruits with a strong mineral character. Vivid, quite acidic on the palate, dry, with medium body, well balanced taste and distinctive long aftertaste of limestone and grapefruit. Its complexity and roundness make this wine a perfect accompaniment to Greek and European cuisine, especially fish and seafood. €13
2008 Aidani-Asyrtiko, Santo Wines, Regional wine of Cyclades, alc 12.5%
The result of vinifying Aidani and Asyrtiko grape is a light lemon colour wine with flashes of gold. There are aromas of herbs and small white flowers on the nose as well as apricot, white peach and some citrus. Its taste is full and tender, steely with lemon curd flavours with great lingering minerality. With its pretty, crushed oyster shell element no wonder this white wine is perfectly combined with soft taste seafood. €15.50
2006 Asyrtiko Reserve, Santo Wines, VQPRD Appellation of Origin Santorini of High Quality, abv 14%
This Asyrtiko is aged in oak barrels for 12 months. Shiny golden yellow colour, the aromas of Asyrtiko – white peach, stone fruit, mineral elements and floral hints – combine with the aroma of wood and vanilla to give a full taste wine, well-balanced and with fine structure. Tart tropical fruits fill the mouth. Medium to full body and dry, the crispiness here is very satisfying, slightly complex and round. It has a long and intense aftertaste, ageing builds its character and gives us a really special wine. Perfect company for smoked salmon, seafood, pasta and spicy white meat dishes. €19.50
Santo Wines are imported and distributed by Inon Pnevmata wine shop at 71B & C Dhigeni Akrita Avenue Tel: 22 460603
