Understanding the joys of winemaking

ANGELOS Tsangarides is a zymurgist. His father and grandfather before him were also zymurgists. In fact the entire family, including his sister Loukia, are all deeply committed and passionate members of this exclusive sect.

The pretty, rather sleepy village of Lemona is where the family have their headquarters. It’s here pilgrims from all over the island come to visit and sample the fruit of the family’s labours. No, the Tsangarides family is not some weird and wacky offshoot of some mystical religious sect. They are in fact winemakers and very good ones, as the gold and silver medal certificates that adorn the walls of winery testify.

Now, these consummate zymurgists – those who study the process of fermentation – are launching an innovative concept which they hope will encourage many more people to take an interest in the challenges of grape growing.

Their Adopt a Vine programme is a concept that has worked successfully in France, Italy, the United States and even in the UK.

The main aim is to attract people who would like to see how this wonderful nectar comes into being by seeing it from grassroots, or rather vine roots, level.

The programme involves the consumer in all stages of wine production, and by making it both educational and entertaining, the Tsangarideses hope they will then secure loyal ‘wine drinking’ customers for life.

They say it takes a poet to make good wine but, it also takes someone who understands basic biochemistry, and members of the Adopt a Vine club will soon learn that wine making is a non-stop, year-round process which involves everything from planting, pruning, harvesting, pressing, fermenting and bottling. To be a top class zymurgist it’s also essential to boast a personality which combines patience, perseverance, energy and an instinctive feel for the process. Winemaking is not, and can never, ever be an exact science. It’s always going to be more of an art.

Members will also discover that vineyards are complex and exceedingly demanding creatures. Every vineyard has its very own distinct personality or DNA. This is known in the world of wine as the Terrior, which is a French word used to describe the physical elements that go into making the vines produce their fruit such as location, climate and soil.

The Tsangarides winery currently produces a superb quality gold medal-winning Mataro and Cabernet Sauvignon. It also produces a Xynesteri, a light, fresh Chardonnay, and there’s a new planting of Shiraz which should set noses twitching for those willing to sniff out new additions to the Tsangarides family of wines.

Angelos is confident his small boutique winery can cope with what will be an unusual influx of visitors.

“People just have to phone me, and I or a member of the family will be there to take care of them. We will then give a short tour of the winery and offer a sampling of our full range of wines,” he said. “I think that’s key, as we don’t really expect all the people who haven’t yet tasted our wines to just go ahead and adopt a vine. They must also like the end result that comes from their selected vine.”

At present two varieties – the Cabernet Sauvignon and the Chardonnay – are up for adoption. Adopting the Cabernet will cost 100 euros and the Chardonnay 80 euros. For that, members will have their name on a weather proof plaque beside their selected vine, receive a special membership certificate and a personal discount card which entitles them to a 10 per cent discount on all purchases of wine direct from the winery. In addition each member will be invited to come and pick the fruit from their vine and given a case of their selected wine.

In other countries this scheme has been a great success with people using it as innovative wedding, birthday, anniversary and retirement presents.

“But we would also like to encourage members to visit and see for themselves the vineyards, to get them into the rhythm of the different parts of the wine growing and making seasons,” said Angelos. “We are really looking forward to welcoming our members for a morning’s grape picking come the all-important harvest time.”

The winery will also email updates on what’s going on with the vines via a newsletter three times a year informing members about the cause and effect of weather conditions and other details. “In other words we will encourage a sort of sect of virtual wine makers via the internet which should also go to making some interesting feedback for us as winemakers,” he said.

The scheme is welcome news for those of us who come from the DIY or Drink it Young school of wine consumption and don’t have the wherewithal to invest in vintage, or in the laying down of expensive wines. Indeed, with a deal like this, the only ‘laying down’ one should practice is perhaps a small siesta after partaking of the liquid grape you’ve adopted.

I just hope the once sleepy village of Lemona is bracing itself for what could be an Angelina Jolie-style rush as potential vine parents start to descend on the winery.

n Tsangarides winery, 8545 Lemona, Paphos

Fax 26 722766

Telephone 26 722777

Winery is open Monday-Friday 8am – 17.00 Saturdays 8am-14.00 Closed Sundays.