Cono Sur
‘Just the right grapes in just the right location’
One of the most recent southern hemisphere wineries to be introduced to our market, by Photiades Distributors, is Cono Sur. This is Spanish for Southern Cone, the shape of south America. It also sounds rather similar to the French term used to indicate ‘a person of informed and discriminating tastes’, as in a connoisseur of fine wines, but whether the resemblance is merely coincidence is not for us to argue or judge.
What we do know is that Cono Sur was founded in 1993 with the intent to grow “just the right grapes in the just the right location” and to that end has vineyard holdings or access to grapes in the appellations of Elquin (the northernmost wine growing region in Chile), Casablanca, Leyda/San Antonio, Colchagua, Cauquenes, Cachapoal, Maipo and Bio-Bio (the furthest south of Chile’s wine growing region). This is the winery that set up the Pinot Noir project in 1999. The initial goal was to produce the best of that varietal in Chile; it later evolved to producing world class Pinot Noir. Cono Sur is now the largest Pinot producer in south America and one of the top five in the world, with Martin Prieur of Domaine Jacques Prieur acting as regular consultant. The winery was the first to produce and export Chilean Viognier (grape variety), the first to make Riesling in Bio-Bio Valley and the first to use Stelvin closure for the export market.
In 1998 Cono Sur implemented the Integrated Vineyard Management System, using natural alternatives to fertilise, prevent and control pests, diseases and weeds (they use geese to control the common pest ‘burrito’). In 2000 they started their first organically managed vineyard, producing their first Certified Organic wine in 2003, and they were the first winery in south America to receive two ISO certifications, one for quality assurance and one for environmental policies.
The winery itself is state of the art, with a capacity for 8.5 million litres in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks and a temperature and humidity controlled ageing cellar holding up to 4,000 barrels. There is also an adjacent boutique winery devoted to producing Pinot Noir. The entire operation is owned by the Guilisasti and Larrain families, who also own Concha y Toro.
I have tasted four wines of the 20 Barrels sophisticated line, produced by Adolfo Hurtado, who is both managing director and winemaker at Cono Sur. The 20 Barrels line is named after the number of barrels originally selected for the production and the range benefits from the best estate vineyard plots, exacting vineyard management, talented winemaking and expressive varietal character.
Wines of the week
2007 Cono Sur 20 Barrels Sauvignon Blanc, Casablanca Valley, abv 13.5%
This is a generous Sauvignon Blanc, a pale yellow with green tints, dry white. On the nose we discover very mineral aromas with elegant lemon zest interwoven with grapefruit and green herbal notes. It has mineral and freshness on the palate too – elegant, delicate, juicy and balanced. The finish is long and fresh and is best with seafood, chicken, yoghurt and citrus sauces, dried fruit, creamy goat cheeses and vegetable dishes. €17.70
2005 Cono Sur 20 Barrels Chardonnay, Casablanca Valley abv 13.5%
This Chardonnay has a beautiful, young, yellow-golden colour. Exuberant and complex, this wine conveys refreshing citrus aromas, fruity notes of peaches, mineral hints and soft toasty oak. In the mouth, fruity flavours mingle with mineral hints. This Chardonnay is a young and fresh wine, very balanced and with a great acidity. I have enjoyed it with seafood pasta and in a creamy white sauce. €17.70
2006 Cono Sur 20 Barrels Merlot Colchagua Valley, abv 14.5%
This is a masterpiece of Merlot making. The wine has a deep, dark, concentrated ruby red colour, complex aromas with notes of blueberries, licorice, cassis, spicy leather, soft toast, tobacco and caramel. The mouth has a creamy texture but there is plenty of muscle there. It is elegant and concentrated with subtle, firm tannins, a good structure and a pure finish. This very polished, modern style of wine can be enjoyed with barbecue fillets, smoked beef, even with pasta salad, spinach and tomatoes. €17.70
2006 Cono Sur 20 Barrels Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo Valley, abv 14%
This Cabernet Sauvignon has a delicious core of ripe blackberry and blackcurrant fruit, with just a touch of tobacco leafiness and earth component. Medium bodied, the fruit is bright and lifted possessing excellent purity and outstanding varietal definition without the excessive mint, tar and loam characteristics that one usually finds from the Maypop Valley. The tannin base is firm enough for good mid-term ageing but allows the fruit to show well with a little aeration. This shows why Cabernet Sauvignon out of Chile is so well respected and offers value in terms of what it delivers in the glass. Drink with grilled lamb chops and sausages. €17.70
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