A touch of spice
The strong tastes of Byzantine cuisine need some strong wines to match them
Mention this title to movie pundits and they will tell you it reminds them of a successful Greek movie. It is a story about a Greek boy, Fanis, growing up in Constantinople, whose grandfather, a culinary philosopher and mentor, teaches him that both food and life require a little salt to give them flavour… they both require a touch of spice. As an adult, he travels back to his birthplace, a successful chef who uses his cooking skills to spice up the lives of those around him. In Constantinople, he realises he has not put any spice in his own life.
I do not know if my friend had this in mind when he challenged us to present the historic cuisine of Constantinople. Greece is the source of an original European cuisine, just as it is the source of Western philosophy. A great variety of foods were available in ancient Greece, and many diverse food cultures coexisted. During the Byzantine era, the centre of Greek civilization moved east, with Constantinople as its capital (Polis and present day Istanbul). Eastern lands and cultures significantly influenced Greek cuisine, either due to the increased variety of available raw materials or because of the different social, spiritual and religious customs of the East. Arguably the most important effect was that of Persian cuisine. Since then and until the beginning of the 20th century, two parallel Greek cuisines have existed and developed over time. Based on the above Eastern influences, a rich cuisine with great creativity and variety of flavours thrived in the eastern part of Greece. Eventually it became known as Byzantine cuisine, or the cuisine of Constantinople (Politiki kouzina) and it is the one that the Ottoman Turks later inherited. The other type of cuisine, the Western Greek developed at the other side of the Aegean.
In this instance, the Coral Beach Hotel’s culinary team had a real task ahead of them. Worse, I believed, I had the task to match the wines. What really goes with this spiced up food full of strong flavours – nutmeg, cinnamon, peppercorns, garlic, vanilla and the strong all spice? The symposium needed good wines and after careful consideration we decided on those from Domaine Gerovassiliou.
The first dishes arrived on the table: egg plant dip full of garlic, yoghurt with spinach and more garlic. The pita bread was grilled soaked in olive oil and was excellent with baked, melted feta cheese, tomato, pimento, bell peppers and all spice, a dish called Mbouyiourti. It was probably the Byzantine version of fondue. I opted to match these dishes with 2007 Domaine Gerovassiliou Vin Blanc, Epanomi, abv 12%. This is a successful combination of Assyrtiko with the rare variety Malagouzia. Bright blonde with greenish glints, an expressive aroma that brings memories of exotic fruit, peach, mango and pineapple along with the delights of pepper, herbs and lemon. The palate is rich and harmonious, equal to the taste and texture of the dairy and vegetables used in our recipes. Vivid and pleasant finish, served cool between 8–10?C (€11.87).
Then the fritters with mince meat, all spice and cinnamon followed with egg plant and zucchini and melted Greek cheese on top and a baked zucchini and feta cheese pie. The 2003 Domaine Gerovassiliou Vin Rouge, Epanomi, abv 12.5% is a combination of Syrah, Merlot and Grenache rouge aged for about a year in French oak barrels. It has a bright, deep purple colour with a complex bouquet of sweet all spice and pepper, and is full of ripe red fruit, plums and dark cherries, some tobacco and toasted bread. There was plenty of fruit in this medium body red, pleasant to drink with silky soft tannins. Its balance and softness did not overpower the vegetable, goat cheese and mince meat combination on the table. It was just enough served at 16-18?C (€15.29).
With Yiaourtlou kebab with lamb served with strained yoghurt, Bekri Meze (diced pork marinated in red wine and hot chilies) and Soutzoukakia Smyrneika (spiced lamb and beef mince meat rissoles cooked in tomato sauce and served with rice pilaf), that followed as main courses we needed a robust wine. The 2004 Avaton is a blend of three indigenous grape varietals of Limnio, Mavroudi and Mavrotragano matured for 20 months in new French oak barrels. Quite dark and concentrated on both the nose and palate, masculine with dark forest fruit, spiced blackcurrant and animal skin, tobacco, mocha with a soft touch of vanilla. Full bodied, young, generous in alcohol, developing some wonderful tannin, this wine has balanced acidity and long oaky aftertaste that finishes dry. Age for 15 more years, serve at 16-18?C (€23.75).
Baklava, galatopoureko (filo and blossom flavoured cream laced with syrup), Kataifi (shredded dough with walnuts and syrup), fruit savarin and Kazan tipi (fried banana served with burnt buffalo cream) decorated our table. The 2005 Bava Bass Tuba, Moscato D’ Asti, abv 4.5% is light, fizzy, effervescent and refreshing. Lots of bright lemons and excellent with what was being served (€14.52).
Imported by Spectus
