What would someone expect from a cosy little French brasserie, run by a couple of French people who decided to offer Cypriots the best food they can possibly bring from France? Other than the foie grass and fromage, the answer is quite simply, some good French wine.
Wine connoisseurs do know French wine. They know good vintage claret, appreciate a fine Burgundian Pinot, a buttery Chardonnay and a party drinking Beaujolais. They’ll certainly enjoy their seafood with a Loire or an Alsatian vin blanc. French wines are fabulously diverse; they brim with romance and sex appeal. They are regarded the world over as benchmarks of flavour. So why can French wines seem slightly intimidating? The truth is, French wines are complicated, in part because of their stunning variety. But in the end, that is also one of their fantastic pluses. You’ll never run out of great French wines to try, which means learning about them can easily become a lifelong pleasure. I have tasted seven wines from various regions, all newcomers to the island and very interesting.
2006 Ch?teau de la Jousselini?re, Muscadet S?vre & Maine sur LIE, abv 12%
The vigneron Gilbert Chon and his son Jean-Gilbert cultivate their vines on the slopes of Muscadet S?vre & Maine. The domain is near the village St Julien des Concelles in western Loire. Produced at the domain, after a few months the wine is bottled direct off the lees (yeast bodies and in French, sur lie) from tank. This is a wine with finesse. It has a clean, pale straw yellow colour. On the nose, there’s peach, orange peel and lime flavours, delicate cold blossoms and floral aromas. The palate is crisp, lean and subtle. It is dry, light-medium bodied, with plenty of character and a light fizz common to the variety. Served at 7°C it is a perfect wine for oysters, seafood and poultry. Incidentally Muscadet is the name of the wine, not the grape, which is Melon de Bourgogne and originates from Burgundy and thriving in the region of Nantes. €4.95
2006 Terres Blanches, Muscat Sec. Vin de Pays D’ Oc, Frontignan, abv 12.5%
The Muscat grape has made this coastal village in Languedoc, South France, famous. Produced from the Vignerons de Frontignan, the village cooperative, this is a dry white with a light yellow colour. It kicks off with a beautifully aromatic, herby, grapey nose, with some peach, which leads to a full flavoured, spicy palate. It is a medium bodied white with a balanced acidity which finishes dry. Impressive stuff. Great at 7°C as an aperitif, with oysters, sea bass in orange zest or shrimps in mango salsa. €5.64
2006 Cave de Labastide-de-L?vis Ros?, Gaillac, Tarn, abv 12%
From the vineyards along the Tarn Valley in south west France, not far from Toulouse, comes this light, refreshing, easy drinking ros?. This is a blend of red grape varieties found at the AOC of Gaillac with minimum percentages of Duras, Fer Servatou, and probably blended with Gamay or Syrah. Pink, strawberry colour, it has fruity nose full of raspberry, strawberry and blackcurrant together with a touch of citrus. Mellow and smooth, it has a well-balanced acidity but with some fruit sweetness. Try at as an aperitif at 9°C or accompany with sausage or seafood paella. €6.49
2004 Domaine et Ch?teau d’Alain Brumont, Madiran abv 13.5%
It is true, there are more grapes than Cabernet and Merlot, and there are Tannat wines of Madiran in Gascogne. This is a wine from Alain Brumont, the winemaker that placed Madiran and the Tannat grape on the modern wine map. It is a dark inky black colour, with baked fruit flavours on the nose, floral, spice and with smokey overtones. On the palate this is a wonderfully concentrated wine of dark berry flavours, a bit abrasive on the mouth feel at the beginning with strong tannins. Allow breathing time. A firm and powerful wine best served at 18°C with red meat. €5.89
Prices are approximate. More wines from Au Bon Plaisir next week …
